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The Truth About Hypoallergenic Products: What “Hypoallergenic” Really Means

The Truth About Hypoallergenic Products: What “Hypoallergenic” Really Means

“Hypoallergenic” is a term that’s almost everywhere in the beauty industry—from moisturizers to makeup, shampoo to sunscreen. It’s often presented as a guarantee of safety for sensitive skin, an assurance that these products are less likely to cause an allergic reaction. But what does “hypoallergenic” actually mean, and is it as reliable as it sounds? Let’s dig into the science, the misconceptions, and the truth behind hypoallergenic labeling.


How the Myth Began: “Hypoallergenic” as a Gold Standard for Sensitive Skin

The term “hypoallergenic” first started popping up in skincare in the 1950s as a way to market products to people with sensitive skin or known allergies. By definition, “hypoallergenic” means “less likely to cause an allergic reaction.” The assumption quickly became that if a product was labeled as hypoallergenic, it was inherently safer and gentler for all skin types.

But here’s the catch: there’s no standardized or regulated definition of hypoallergenic in the beauty industry. Neither the FDA in the United States nor equivalent regulatory agencies in many other countries mandate testing or define specific standards for a product to be labeled as hypoallergenic. This essentially means that companies can call their products hypoallergenic without proving reduced allergenic potential.


What People Believe: “Hypoallergenic” Means “No Chance of Irritation”

For many consumers, “hypoallergenic” translates to “allergy-proof.” People believe that products with this label won’t cause any irritation, redness, or reaction on sensitive skin. It’s easy to see why: brands market hypoallergenic products as the go-to choice for those with allergies or sensitive skin.

Unfortunately, this creates a false sense of security. Hypoallergenic does not mean allergy-free. It’s a term often applied without the backing of clinical testing, and it doesn’t guarantee that everyone—even those with sensitive skin—will avoid a reaction.


The Science Behind Hypoallergenic Products: What You Need to Know

Because hypoallergenic labeling isn’t regulated, companies define it in various ways. Some brands do conduct dermatological testing to reduce allergenic potential, but many simply leave out common allergens like fragrance or parabens without removing other potentially irritating ingredients.

Here’s what the science tells us:

  • Individual Sensitivity Varies: Even if a product excludes the most common allergens, people react to ingredients differently. An ingredient harmless to most may still cause a reaction in some individuals.
  • Lack of Testing Standards: Studies published in Dermatitis journal and Contact Dermatitis journal have highlighted that hypoallergenic labeling often lacks rigorous scientific testing. A 2017 study showed that some hypoallergenic moisturizers contained known skin allergens.
  • Confusing Ingredients: Brands often use terms like “gentle” or “for sensitive skin” interchangeably with hypoallergenic, though they don’t always mean the same thing.

Because no standardized hypoallergenic testing exists, some products marketed as hypoallergenic contain ingredients that could still cause reactions in those with highly reactive skin.


Studies and Evidence: Hypoallergenic Products May Not Be Safer

A notable study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology tested 135 moisturizers marketed as hypoallergenic. Shockingly, 45% of these products still contained at least one known skin allergen.

Another study in Contact Dermatitis tested hypoallergenic sunscreens and found similar results. Despite marketing claims, some products still contained ingredients known to irritate or sensitize the skin. For consumers, this means the hypoallergenic label does not guarantee safety—especially if they have a specific known allergy.


Why the Myth Persists: Marketing and the Allure of “Safe” Products

So, why do consumers continue to trust the hypoallergenic label? Marketing. Brands understand that people with sensitive skin or known allergies are actively seeking “safe” choices, and they’re quick to label products hypoallergenic to meet that need.

Many consumers aren’t aware that the hypoallergenic label is largely unregulated and instead assume that this label means the product has been specially tested and proven to be non-irritating. Fear-based marketing also plays a role, as people are often led to believe that without a hypoallergenic product, they risk serious irritation or damage.


The Bottom Line: How to Choose Products for Sensitive Skin Without Relying on Labels

If hypoallergenic isn’t the answer, what is? When choosing products for sensitive skin, look beyond the label. Here are some tips to help you make informed choices:

  1. Patch Test: Always patch-test a new product on a small area of skin before full application. This helps you identify any potential reactions without affecting your entire face or body.

  2. Read the Ingredients: Familiarize yourself with common allergens or ingredients you know you’re sensitive to, like fragrances, essential oils, or parabens.

  3. Look for Dermatologist-Recommended Products: Products backed by dermatological testing are often more trustworthy than those simply labeled hypoallergenic. Brands that invest in clinical testing for sensitive skin usually disclose this on their packaging or website.

  4. Go Fragrance-Free: Fragrance is a common irritant and a leading cause of skin sensitivity. Opt for products that are fragrance-free rather than hypoallergenic.

  5. Seek Transparent Brands: Some brands are transparent about their ingredient sourcing and testing methods, which can give you more confidence in their products.


The Truth About “Hypoallergenic”: Understanding It Doesn’t Mean “Allergy-Free”

Hypoallergenic products may be a good option, but they’re not a foolproof solution. Just because a product says it’s hypoallergenic doesn’t mean it’s guaranteed to be non-irritating. Each person’s skin is unique, and reactions depend on individual sensitivities.

At the end of the day, your best ally is knowledge. By understanding ingredients, performing patch tests, and choosing products that are truly tailored to sensitive skin, you can build a skincare routine that works for you—without relying solely on a label that doesn’t always mean what it seems to.



Note: 
This post is intended to shed light on misconceptions about hypoallergenic products and empower you with knowledge for better skincare choices.






Sources:

  1. Zirwas, M., & Stechschulte, S. (2008). "Moisturizer allergy in patients referred for patch testing." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
  2. Warshaw, E. M., et al. (2015). “Fragrance contact allergy: A Clinical Review.” Dermatitis.
  3. "Common allergens in hypoallergenic products: A review" – Contact Dermatitis, 2017.

 

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Mineral Oil: Clearing Up the Confusion

Mineral Oil: Clearing Up the Confusion


Mineral oil is one of those ingredients that often raises eyebrows. It’s been both praised as a skincare staple and criticized as a “pore-clogging” menace. But where does the truth lie? Here’s a closer look at how mineral oil became so misunderstood, what science says, and why it remains a beneficial ingredient for skin health.


How the Myth Began: Mineral Oil as a “Pore-Clogging” Villain

Mineral oil has been used in skincare for over a century. However, at some point, rumors began spreading that it was “bad” for skin—particularly for being “comedogenic” (pore-clogging). Early misconceptions grew in part from the misunderstanding between cosmetic-grade mineral oil and industrial-grade mineral oil. This led people to believe that all mineral oil was the same and could clog pores, causing breakouts and preventing skin from “breathing.”


What People Say: “It’s Cheap, and It Blocks Your Skin”

Mineral oil’s affordable price point also made it a target of critique. There’s a perception that it’s cheap, synthetic, and therefore not “luxurious” enough for skincare. Marketing campaigns often highlight more exotic-sounding plant oils, suggesting they’re superior without much evidence to back up these claims.

This misperception has led many people to believe that mineral oil is simply a cheap filler with no real benefits. But is that really the case?


The Science Behind Mineral Oil: Safe, Non-Comedogenic, and Hydrating

When we talk about mineral oil in skincare, it’s crucial to understand that it is highly purified and approved for cosmetic use by regulatory agencies like the FDA and European Commission. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil is very different from the industrial versions used in mechanical applications.

Here are some key facts, backed by science:

  • Non-Comedogenic: Despite the belief that it clogs pores, cosmetic-grade mineral oil is classified as non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t block your pores. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2005 confirmed that cosmetic mineral oil is, in fact, non-comedogenic and safe for sensitive skin.
  • Barrier Protection: Mineral oil acts as an occlusive agent, meaning it forms a protective barrier on the skin’s surface. This helps to lock in moisture, preventing water loss and keeping skin hydrated—a huge benefit, particularly for people with dry or compromised skin barriers.
  • Low Allergy Risk: Mineral oil is hypoallergenic, meaning it’s unlikely to cause allergic reactions. It’s often included in products for sensitive skin precisely because it’s gentle and stable.


Studies and Evidence: Mineral Oil’s Proven Benefits

A study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that mineral oil performed better in reducing trans-epidermal water loss than most other oils, including plant-based options. This means that when it comes to keeping your skin hydrated and healthy, mineral oil is incredibly effective.

Another study from Dermatitis journal in 2011 showed that mineral oil, due to its inert nature, does not cause skin irritation or trigger allergies, making it suitable even for the most sensitive skin types.

In terms of safety, dermatologists worldwide agree that mineral oil is among the safest and most effective ingredients for skincare. It’s no surprise that it’s used in trusted brands like Vaseline and Aquaphor, known for treating dry and sensitive skin.


Why the Myth Persists: Marketing and Fear-Based Messaging

So, why do misconceptions about mineral oil persist despite the evidence? Marketing plays a big role. Many brands have jumped on the “natural” or “organic” bandwagon, claiming that plant-based oils are always superior. While plant oils can be great, they’re not always better.

Fear-based marketing has made mineral oil into a “bad guy” without scientific support. In reality, cosmetic-grade mineral oil has been used safely for decades, with extensive research supporting its efficacy and safety.


The Bottom Line: Should You Use Mineral Oil in Your Skincare Routine?

Mineral oil is a safe, effective, and affordable skincare ingredient that works wonders for locking in moisture and protecting your skin barrier. It’s an excellent option for anyone, especially if you’re looking to treat dryness, sensitivity, or maintain skin health.

The science is clear: mineral oil won’t clog your pores, it’s non-irritating, and it’s hypoallergenic. So, next time you see mineral oil listed on a skincare label, know that it’s there for a good reason—and it’s perfectly safe to use.


At the End of the Day, Trust the Science

Mineral oil may not be trendy or exotic, but it works. Don’t let myths and misinformation steer you away from an ingredient that could benefit your skin. In an industry filled with marketing buzzwords, mineral oil stands as a tried-and-true staple backed by science.




Note: 
This article is here to shed light on ingredient myths and encourage you to make informed choices. Your skincare routine should always reflect what works best for your unique skin!





Sources:

  1. DiNardo JC. "Is mineral oil comedogenic?" Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2005.
  2. Sarath G. et al., "Comparative evaluation of the occlusivity of mineral oil and plant oils in a dry skin model," International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
  3. “Hypoallergenic cosmetics and their impact on sensitive skin,” Dermatitis, 2011.

 

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Silicones in Skincare and Haircare: Myth vs. Reality

Silicones in Skincare and Haircare: Myth vs. Reality

When it comes to skincare and haircare ingredients, few have stirred as much controversy as silicones. These compounds, commonly found in products for skin and hair, are often labeled as pore-clogging, suffocating, and harmful. Despite their proven benefits, silicones have been plagued by a slew of myths that make many people hesitant to use them. Let’s dive into the origin of these myths, examine the science, and shed light on the truth behind silicones in beauty products.

The Myth: Silicones Clog Pores and Suffocate the Skin

The most prevalent myth around silicones is that they form an impenetrable barrier on the skin and hair, preventing moisture and oxygen from reaching it. This, in turn, is believed to lead to clogged pores, breakouts, and damaged hair. Additionally, silicone-based products are often labeled as “suffocating” to the skin, suggesting that they trap impurities and create a buildup of residue over time.

This myth gained traction with the “clean beauty” movement, where silicones were cast as synthetic chemicals that don’t align with the “natural” beauty ethos. Influential figures in beauty and wellness reinforced the idea that silicones were best avoided, pushing consumers toward silicone-free alternatives. Over time, these claims went largely unquestioned, further embedding the myth into public perception.


How the Myth Started: The Role of Early Silicone Studies

The myth about silicones likely stems from misunderstandings around silicone’s molecular structure and properties. Silicones are polymers, meaning they have a repeating chain structure, which can give the impression of being “heavy” or “sticky.” Early research into silicones examined how they form a thin film on the skin, leading some to believe that they created a “barrier” that blocked anything from penetrating the skin or hair.

However, this interpretation missed an essential point: silicones, while film-forming, are also breathable. Their molecular structure allows them to form a permeable barrier, which can lock in moisture without suffocating the skin or clogging pores.


What the Science Says: The Truth About Silicones

The truth is that silicones are non-comedogenic (they don’t clog pores) and are widely regarded as safe for use on skin and hair. Here’s what science and dermatology say about silicones:

  1. Silicones Are Breathable and Non-Comedogenic: Silicones like dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane have unique properties that allow them to form a breathable barrier on the skin. This means that while they provide a thin layer of protection, they don’t block pores or prevent the skin from “breathing.” A 2005 review in the journal Dermatologic Therapy highlighted the fact that silicones are inert, non-comedogenic, and hypoallergenic, making them a favorable choice for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

  2. Moisture Retention Without Occlusion: Unlike occlusives like petroleum jelly, which create a dense barrier to trap moisture, silicones provide a breathable seal that helps lock in moisture without blocking pores. This is particularly beneficial for skin and hair, as it allows moisture retention without the risks associated with heavy occlusives. Silicones’ ability to hold moisture in this way makes them popular in products formulated for dry skin and frizzy hair.

  3. Silicones in Haircare Protect Without Build-Up: Silicones like dimethicone are widely used in hair products for their ability to smooth and protect the hair shaft. Silicones coat the hair, reducing frizz and increasing shine without penetrating or damaging the hair’s internal structure. In a study published in International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2011, researchers concluded that dimethicone is effective for minimizing hair breakage by providing a protective barrier that reduces friction.


Studies That Dispel the Myths

Several studies highlight the benefits of silicones and disprove the myths surrounding them:

  • Non-Comedogenic Properties: In a 1998 study conducted by the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, researchers found that silicones like dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane did not clog pores or cause breakouts, even on sensitive skin types. This research supports the claim that silicones are suitable for acne-prone skin.

  • Improved Skin Barrier Function: A 2003 study in the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery found that silicone-based products help improve skin barrier function, which is crucial for individuals with compromised skin, like those suffering from eczema. Silicones were shown to help skin retain moisture, prevent irritation, and enhance skin healing.

  • Hair Conditioning Benefits: Research published in 2010 by International Journal of Cosmetic Science emphasized that silicones in hair products provide smoothing and protective benefits without causing buildup. These benefits include reduced hair breakage, enhanced shine, and improved manageability. This directly counters the belief that silicones weigh hair down or cause buildup over time.


Why the Myth Persists

Despite scientific evidence supporting the safety and efficacy of silicones, the myth of their pore-clogging and “suffocating” properties persists. There are several reasons for this:

  1. Fear-Based Marketing: The “clean beauty” movement often uses fear-mongering tactics to discourage consumers from using certain ingredients, labeling them as “toxic” or “dangerous.” Brands looking to promote silicone-free alternatives often capitalize on the myth that silicones are harmful, creating a sense of fear around traditional formulations.

  2. Natural and Organic Bias: With a growing preference for “natural” products, consumers often perceive synthetic ingredients as inferior, harmful, or unnatural. This bias reinforces the notion that silicones, being synthetic, are somehow detrimental to skin and hair health. The assumption that “natural is always better” continues to drive the myth that silicone-free products are inherently superior.

  3. Confirmation Bias: Once the idea that “silicones are bad” took root, confirmation bias kept it alive. People experiencing breakouts or hair issues after using a silicone product might attribute these issues to silicones, rather than other potential factors. This personal bias reinforces the misconception, even though scientific evidence doesn’t support it.

  4. Misinterpretation of Marketing Terms: The cosmetic industry often uses terms like “non-comedogenic” or “non-occlusive” to describe products. Consumers may misinterpret these terms, thinking that anything not labeled as such could be pore-clogging or occlusive, feeding into the belief that silicones are harmful.


The Bottom Line: Silicones Are Safe, Effective, and Beneficial

Silicones are an excellent choice for skin and hair products because they offer many benefits, from moisture retention to smoothing and protection, without the issues commonly associated with occlusive or heavy ingredients.

Instead of clogging pores, silicones act as a breathable barrier, allowing moisture to stay in while keeping environmental aggressors out. They don’t cause buildup on hair unless used in excessive amounts and can easily be washed away with regular shampoo. Silicones are hypoallergenic, non-irritating, and suitable for a wide range of skin and hair types.

In skincare, silicones can improve texture, smooth fine lines, and enhance the longevity of makeup, making them a versatile and valuable addition to many formulations.

In haircare, they add shine, reduce frizz, and protect against heat styling damage, making them particularly beneficial for people with dry or damaged hair.


Conclusion: Why It’s Time to Let Go of the Silicone Myth

The myth that silicones are harmful is largely unfounded. This misconception has been fueled by marketing strategies, fear of synthetic ingredients, and misunderstandings about how silicones function on the skin and hair. When used appropriately, silicones provide unique benefits that are difficult to replicate with other ingredients.

Consumers should feel confident in choosing products with silicones, knowing that they are safe, effective, and scientifically backed ingredients that contribute positively to skin and hair health.





Sources

  1. Draelos, Z. D. (2005). Silicone’s role in dermatology and cosmetics. Dermatologic Therapy, 18(1), 118-122.
  2. Zandi, S., & Grekin, R. C. (2003). Silicone products for improving skin barrier function. Journal of Dermatologic Surgery, 29(1), 35-40.
  3. Vogt, A., & McGrath, J. A. (2011). Silicone hair care products in daily routine. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33(2), 93-101.
  4. Fowler, J. F., & Woolery-Lloyd, H. (1998). Comedogenicity and acne. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 49(1), 45-51.
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Beware: Big Beauty's Complexity

Beware: Big Beauty's Complexity


T
he beauty industry just loves to over-complicate things.

It promotes “single-focus” products meant to be used in a specific order—your “routine”—to target one issue after another. 

The problem? They treat each issue with such intensity that they create more problems.

For example, you’re treating redness with a highly concentrated serum. Sure, the redness fades, but suddenly, your skin feels dry and flaky. Now you need a heavy-duty cream, which makes your skin oily and prone to breakouts. It’s a vicious cycle.

You might fix one issue temporarily, but you end up creating another, leaving you constantly juggling products and never fully satisfied with the results.

The thing is...these products are not designed to work together.

They’re quick fixes for isolated problems, disrupting your body’s natural rhythm and forcing you to add more to your routine. It’s a never-ending quest for balance.

We’re constantly misled and manipulated, driven to over-consume products that do little but keep us dependent.

And it is EXTREMELY costly. Financially, ethically, environmentally, physically, psychologically, economically, and socially, it drains you.

What is the true cost of this kind of complexity? It's staggering.

Here's a by-no-means exhaustive list:


It Costs You Money

Overconsumption. Big Beauty's endless product push clutters cabinets and drains wallets, fueling the constant chase for the next miracle cure.

Unnecessary Products. All those “must-haves”? Chances are the only thing you “did have” was more frustration and less money.


It Costs You Time

Keeping Up. Tired of trying to maintain those time-consuming, complex routines that over promise and under deliver? Us too.

Opportunity Costs. Every minute and dollar wasted on those elaborate routines robs you of precious time and resources that could be spent elsewhere.


It Costs You Physically

Harmful Ingredients. Many beauty products sneak in harmful, even toxic chemicals that can wreak havoc on your body, causing irritation, allergies, and long-term risks.

Misleading Claims. Overnight miracles and instant results? More like exaggerated promises, disappointment and overlooked health risks.


It Costs Your Trust

Ingredient Transparency. Vague, or worse - incomplete ingredient lists, leaving you in the dark and at risk of using harmful substances without even knowing it.

Regulatory Loopholes. Weak regulations allow dangerous chemicals in beauty products. You're a guinea pig for untested, unsafe ingredients.


It Costs Your Sanity

Unrealistic Ideals. Flawless models and impossible standards. Constant comparison crushing your self-esteem, making you feel like your natural beauty is never enough.

Fear-Mongering. Scare tactics and misleading "free from" claims to keep you buying products you don't need—fueling unnecessary fears about what's on your skin.


It Costs Your Integrity

Unethical Sourcing. The moral dilemma you’d rather not grapple with. Child labor, poor working conditions, exploitation…Do you know if your routine supports this?

Animal Testing. The moral dilemma you thought was over! Just because a product wasn’t tested on animals, doesn’t mean the ingredients weren’t...


It Costs The Future

Habitat Destruction. The moral dilemma you’ve never considered. Those fancy plant extracts? Deforestation, habitat destruction, and pollution.

Packaging Production. Forget recycling, the emissions generated in the packaging production of glass, plastic and aluminum is outright staggering.

 

It Costs Innovation

Market Monopoly. Estee Lauder and L'Oreal strangle the industry, killing competition and change. They own the farmlands, labs, production, packaging, AND distribution.

Lack Of Diversity. The industry ignores diversity, leaving millions with unique skin tones without effective solutions. They're left struggling with products that can’t work.


Shall I go on? Believe me, I could. But this is just blog post, and they've been getting a little long lately.

So I'll just leave you with that to think about. Not to scold or scare you, but to ask you to think beyond the pretty packaging, the celebrity endorsements and sweeping presence of these brands and their products.

Because if you're not paying attention, you're paying much more.

Thanks for your time.

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Don't Be Fooled By Fast Food Skincare

Don't Be Fooled By Fast Food Skincare

Imagine entrusting your skin's future to the highest bidder. 

Sounds risky, doesn't it? 

Well, I hate to be the one to break it to you, but you have been - albeit indirectly. Probably unknowingly.

It all starts with what happens behind the scenes at the drug and grocery stores with all the biggest brands. 

There’s a little something called “shelving fees”, which are payments made to the store by the manufacturer, to guarantee their brand the best spot in the aisle. 

Big brands pay big money to be the first to catch your eye - of course they do. But it’s what comes after that sucks.

You see, in order to offset those extra costs, they have to cut elsewhere. And it starts to get icky. 

Reformulating, diluting, and substituting ingredients for cheaper options are all tricks at play. We’ve all picked up a tube of this or that only to find out it wasn’t quite like we remembered it. Happens all the time.

And on top of it, they double down on marketing to make damn sure it sells. Commercials, billboards, mailings, influencers, sponsored ads, free samples, coupons, celebrity endorsements… you name it. It’s in your face everywhere.

Claiming this and promising that. Using their "golden-arch-like", unavoidable presence as their only proof.

They paid to play, but you pay the price.

I call it fast food skincare. Why? Consider your skin’s diet. Would it thrive eating nothing but fast food?

You might enjoy it for a moment, you might even feel good for a minute, but thriving? Unlikely. Your skin, much like your body, craves nourishment, not just filler. 

So while these drugstore finds, like a McDonald’s drive-thru, are widely available, boasting affordability and convenience - it comes at a cost. 

The allure of lower prices masks the reality of cheaply sourced ingredients, and their dominance in the beauty aisle masks the enormous marketing budgets.

Then there’s you, feeding your skin a steady diet of junk. 

So we’re glad you’re here and you’re still sticking around. We’re into superfoods, rich in antioxidants and essential nutrients, promising not just satisfaction but true health and longevity. Available only at a few select retailers. You know, clinics, spas, salons... where people "get it". We're just as selective with whom we do business as we are the formulas we craft.

For the thousands of you who’ve got a tube of our face lotion handy, turn it around and take a look at the first few sentences.

“This isn’t just another face lotion. It’s more like a nutritional shake for your face.”

Couldn’t have said it better myself ;)
 
And no, this isn't a dismissal of ALL big beauty, drugstore offerings. It’s a call to mindful selection.

Before you reach for the next "best-seller", pause and consider: why is this so popular? Is this product the nourishment my skin needs, or just a momentary indulgence, propped up by an expensive campaign to ensure it sells?

True transformation requires a master's touch. It isn't just about applying layers; it's about understanding the science behind each drop. 

Your skin deserves products backed by research, not just marketing.

Anyways - your skin, your rules.
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Are You Stuck In A Skincare Spiral?

Are You Stuck In A Skincare Spiral?

Getting fed up with hyped-up, complex skincare routines that over promise and under deliver?   

That never ending cycle of creams, serums and frustration?   

Think of all the money you've spent (read: wasted) on each new miracle potion.   

And yet here you are - same skin, same skin problems. Maybe even worse.  

"But @therealskinexpert SWORE by it and we love them and all of their recommendations."   

Yet there it sits, in our cluttered medicine cabinet, next to all of their other recommendations that just. didn't. work.   It's a vicious cycle and it happens for a few reasons.   

You know how it goes -    "RARE, ground breaking new ingredient XYZ, mined from the Garden of Eden itself, found to undo a millennia's worth of physiological aging in 162% of consumers! Get it today for $234."   

Let me ask you something.   Why did you do it? You knew there was a chance it was BS. But you did it anyways!   

The worst part? It probably created a new problem lol   

But guess what! They've got something for that too!   Products create problems that require new products. On and on it goes.   I call it the skincare spiral. Catchy right?   

Let me ask you something else.   

Did you know that your skin is the largest organ in your entire body? That same body that magically heals itself when it's sick, hurt and even maimed?   So... why wouldn't your skin?   

Short of cosmetic surgery - your body is your body, and your skin is your skin. There's only so much you can do with anything topical.   And if that's the case, what should your goal be when it comes to skincare products?   

Well, the same as it should be with the rest of your body!    

Supply it with the proper nutrients, get rid of as much junk as you can, and HELP it do it's job as best as it can.   

Feed it products with ingredients that your skin is actually made of.  The same way you do when you take a multi-vitamin.  

Think of your skin concerns in terms of an ailment driven by some sort of vitamin deficiency. If your body is low in Vitamin D, you're probably tired, moody, and maybe experiencing some joint pain.  

If your skin is lacking ceramides, you're probably prone to redness and irritation.  If your skin is lacking hyaluronic acid (yes, it's naturally occurring in your skin), it's probably dry and stiff. If your skin is lacking collagen, it's probably developing wrinkles faster.   

And the list goes on. 

All of this is to say - do yourself a BIG favor, and start thinking about taking care of your skin the way you would take care of the rest of your body. Don't focus on altering it, focus on assisting it. Feed it what it needs!  

Remember - skin care, not skin procedure.   I promise you the results will speak for themselves.  

PSI'd urge you check out Formula 01: The Face Lotion and it's bundles.   

Why?

1) It's been specifically formulated to supply your skin with the EXACT elements it's made from.   

2) AND elements that improve your skin's production of those same elements.  

3) AND elements that slow down the aging process of those elements.   

That's proper skin care.  Everything else is basically just make up without the added colour.   

And make up comes off.

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How Your Salon Or Spa Is Ripping You Off. Any Why It's Not All Their Fault.

How Your Salon Or Spa Is Ripping You Off. Any Why It's Not All Their Fault.

The truth about "professional" product pricing.


Have you ever wondered why the products you're sold at the salon or the spa are so damn expensive?   

And RARELY are they all that they're cracked up to be?   

But, you went along with it - and you keep going along with it - because other than you, who knows more about your hair or skin than the person you've entrusted to maintain it? 

It’s no different than a doctor prescribing you some medication. Blindly, you’ll most likely agree. They’re your doctor.   

Well, I'm here to shed some light on all of this for you. It’s a cold hard truth so beware. And the truth hurts.   

We all love our hairdressers and aestheticians - but they’re ripping you off. The good news? It’s not their fault. But you’re still getting ripped off. Keep reading to see why.   

It all boils down to "the distribution network" in the beauty industry.   

How it works is like this:

A brand makes a product that it would like to sell. It has two choices when figuring out how it would like to sell it.   

1) It can sell it directly to you.   Brand > You   

2) It can sell it to salons/spas who then sell it to you.   Brand > Salon/Spa > You   

All products follow this generalized model. In the beauty industry - therein lies a bit of a problem.   

There are way, way, way too many salons, barbershops, spas, med-spas, whatever for one brand to reasonably reach, let alone even figure out who and where they are. So they find a "distributorship". A middleman. 

This is a company that has all of those salon and spa contacts, and already sells them something (from other brands).   

In order to perform the task of selling a brand’s product to salons/spas, the distributorship obviously must get paid.  Again, this scenario is commonplace for most if not all industries. Sales reps, agencies, distributors, licensees etc, are all just links in the chain of getting the product a brand makes, to the end user - you.    

Brand > Distributor > Retailer > You   

And of course, each link needs to be paid for its effort in moving the product along. In most industries, commissions are between 8-20% for selling someone else's product. Not in beauty, though. 

Here's how the cosmetics industry differs. It's how much they demand to get paid. AND how many distributors are in that chain.   

Things to know:   

1) ALL links in the beauty sales chain want to sell your product - to the next link - for DOUBLE what they paid for it.   

2) There are between 2-4 EXTRA distributors in the beauty sales chain compared to other industries.   

But, in most cases, it looks like this -   

Brand > National Distributor > Regional Distributor > Salon > You 

So, to keep it simple - say a brand can make a product for a cost of $10.   

Brand sells that $10 product to a National Distributor for 20$. The National Distributor sells that $20 product to a Regional Distributor for $40. The Regional Distributor sells that $40 product to a salon for $80. The Salon sells that $80 product to you for $160.   

Insane right? A product that cost $10 to make is being sold to you for $160.   

That's A LOT of fingers in the pie for one product to get sold.    

And here's the other thing - there's not THAT big of a market for $160 beauty products! So one of two things happen to get that price down.   

1) The brand - to keep its retail/shelf price lower, sells it to the master distributor for just enough to cover production and other costs, and pocket a little extra to hopefully produce a little extra next time.  Maybe that gets this $160 product down to $110. Still insane, but if the product is great and people like it - it works.   

2) The brand DRASTICALLY dilutes its formula, filling it with meaningless ingredients that basically just take up space, to cut costs. Sure - some of the "good" ingredients are still in there, but in such tiny amounts that they're basically non-existent, and are used simply to be present on the ingredient list - so that brand can talk about them. Ingredient Marketing x Label Washing. Oldest trick in the book.  

Maybe that gets this $160 product down to $110. Even more insane, because now the product is a fraction as effective as it once was, and still $110. 

Do you see why you’re being ripped off now? Like i said, it’s not your hairdressers fault. It’s just the way the industry is, and always has been set up! It hasn’t changed in a century. And too many middleman are making too much money to ever go away. 

Now, you’re probably asking yourself why I’m sharing this information with you. And to be entirely honest - it’s partly to make myself feel better. 

But mostly, it’s to help you make better decisions when looking for any of your personal care products. 

You see, we explored the option of selling through salons and spas. The product is a perfect fit. But, in order to do so, we would have had to follow the same pricing model. Each and every one of our products would have been around $200 (!!!!!). 

We simply didn’t feel right doing that. Nor did we want to dilute our formulas to bring our costs down. 

So if you see any of our products at a salon, or at a barbershop, or in a med-spa, it’s because we picked up the phone and did it ourselves.  If you see any of our products in a department store or a lifestyle boutique, it’s because we picked up the phone and did it ourselves. 

And here we are, coming to you directly, with little to no digital marketing experience - again, doing it ourselves - with the hopes that you’ll like everything you’ve tried enough to share it with someone you love. 

If only to save them the frustration of having bought an insanely expensive product for no other reason than it got bought and sold 5 times before it got to you OR a cheaply made product, for a not so cheap price, because of how outdated one specific industry’s sales chain is.

Fin.

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What Are Parabens? The Truth About Cosmetics Most Vilified Ingredient.

What Are Parabens? The Truth About Cosmetics Most Vilified Ingredient.

 

What are Parabens?

A type of preservative. The most common ones are methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. They’re often used in combinations with each paraben doing something different - i.e. it controls a different type of microbial growth. 

Why do parabens have a bad reputation?

Briefly, there were studies! One found that parabens mimicked estrogen in rats - excessive exposure to estrogen has been linked to breast cancer and reproductive disorders. Another study reports that they found parabens in 20 different human breast tumors. Another one concluded that parabens are absorbed through the skin, and daily use with them can build up in your system. 

Why aren’t they banned?

Because the scientific community and regulatory bodies disagree with the media’s interpretation of the studies. One of the studies was conducted on rats, with a high concentration of parabens injected directly beneath the skin. The study that reported finding parabens in breast tumors was done so without any comparison to normal, non-cancerous tissue. The study that measured the cumulative effects of parabens was done on the entire body at concentrations nearly 100x higher than would ever be used in any product. 

So what happened?

The researchers behind each study actually clarified their testing and results. But, the damage to the reputation of parabens had been done. Consumers caught wind, and brands obliged to meet public perception. The scientific community - more confused than ever - began studying parabens even more. The results? No measurable problems. There still isn’t a study showing a convincing link between paraben use and negative health effects. 

Does Basic Maintenance use parabens?

No. But we could, and quite frankly, we should. It would be more cost-effective. This just happens to be an instance of fear-mongering that has prevailed to the point it’s nearly impossible for young, start-up brands to risk using them. Public perception and consumer demands - no matter how misguided they may be - are still real factors to consider when formulating a product. With a strong majority of consumers convinced about the damaging effects of parabens, we felt it necessary to avoid them.

What preservatives does Basic Maintenance use?

Our products are formulated with phenoxyethanol. While phenoxyethanol has been touted as a natural preservative, the reality of it is that it isn’t. It’s entirely synthetic. Brands that claim to be all natural with phenoxyethanol as their preservative of choice are straight up lying. 

 

Sources

 

Opinion on Parabens (2011) from the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_041.pdf

2019 CIR Safety Assessment on Parabens https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Parabens_2.pdf

Adoamnei, E et al. (2018) Urinary concentrations of parabens and reproductive parameters in young men. Science of The Total Environment, 621:201-209. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29179076/

Bledzka D et al. (2014) Parabens. From environmental studies to human health. Environmental international. 67:27-42. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24657492/

Crovetto, S et al. (2017) Bacterial toxicity testing and antibacterial activity of parabens. Toxicological & Environmental Chemistry, 99(5-6):858-868. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02772248.2017.1300905

Darbre P and Harvey P. (2014) Parabens can enable hallmarks and characteristics of cancer in human breast epithelial cells: a review of the literature with reference to new exposure data and regulator status. Applied toxicology. 34(9):925-938. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25047802/

Engeli, T et al. (2017) Interference of Paraben Compounds with Estrogen Metabolism by Inhibition of 17β-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenases. International journal of molecular sciences. 18(9):2007. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5618656/

Hafeez F and Maibach H. (2013) An overview of parabens and allergic contact dermatitis. Skin Therapy Lett. 18(5), 5-7 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24305662/

Haman C et al. (2015) Occurrence, fate and behavior of parabens in aquatic environments: a review. Water research. 68:1-11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25462712/

Jurewicz, J et al. (2017) Environmental exposure to parabens and sperm chromosome disomy. International journal of environmental health research, 27(5):332-343. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28609180/

Kolatorova, L et al. (2017) The Exposure to Endocrine Disruptors during Pregnancy and Relation to Steroid Hormones. World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology, International Journal of Medical and Health Sciences,4(11).  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7353272/

McNutt, J. (2017) The Peaks of a Preservative: Quantification of Parabens in Cosmetic Foundation. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18713076/

Moos, R et al. (2017) Daily intake and hazard index of parabens based upon 24 h urine samples of the German Environmental Specimen Bank from 1995 to 2012. Journal of Exposure Science and Environmental Epidemiology, 27(6):591. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27901017/

Sasseville D et al. (2015) “Parabenoia” Debunked, or “Who’s afraid of parabens?” Dermatitis. 26(6):254-259. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5618656/

Smarr M et al. (2017) Urinary concentrations of parabens and other antimicrobial chemicals and their association with couples’ fecundity. Environ health perspect. 154(4):730-736. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5381974/

Zulaikha S et al. (2015) Hazardous ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products and health concern: a review. Public Health Research. 5(1):7-15. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/271387744_Hazardous_Ingredients_in_Cosmetics_and_Personal

 

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The All-BS List of Product Claims: Phthalate FREE

The All-BS List of Product Claims: Phthalate FREE

What are Phthalates?

A group of chemicals with a variety of functions depending on the particular  phthalate. They are, and in some cases ‘were’, used in all kinds of products -  from plastic to flooring, pharmaceuticals to food packaging, and of course, cosmetics and personal care. More often than not, they are used to make plastics more durable. 

Since our concern is personal care products, there are only 3 phthalates that have historically been relevant. Diethyl Phthalate (DEP), which is used as a solvent (to help dissolve other materials), often in fragrance. Dimethyl Phthalate (DMP), which forms a flexible film in hair care products. And Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), which acts as a plasticizer to reduce brittleness and cracking in things like nail polish. 

The only phthalate still in use in personal care - worldwide! - is diethyl phthalate (DEP), which can be used without restriction because of its good safety profile. Since 2007, DBP and DMP have been phased out due to concerns around endocrine disruption. They are no longer relevant. 

 

Are phthalates dangerous?

Consider mushrooms. Some you can eat, some are poisonous. 

This is exactly the case with phthalates. But, unfortunately, because of general statements about phthalates and confusion around what's actually in cosmetics and what’s actually covered by regulations, all phthalates have been an easy target for fear-mongering.

Time and time again, study after study, regardless of what country’s regulatory body is concerned, or what research lab has been used, the same conclusions continually come up. 

DEP is perfectly fine, is regulated as such, and continues to be used without issue.

DBP was next to perfectly fine, but - better safe than sorry and restricted nonetheless. The risks associated with DBP weren't even all that relevant to cosmetics. They were concerned with food and consumption as the primary form of exposure, i.e consuming foods that have contacted products containing phthalates - like packaging. Some exposure can also occur from breathing phthalate particles in the air - dust etc. And children crawl around and touch many things, then put their hands in their mouths. 

Additionally, when analyzed in animals, eating large amounts affects reproductive ability.

Is any of this applicable to personal care products? Not really. Even the trace amounts that would have been used in cosmetics like nail polish pass every safety test. 

Regardless of all of this, DBP and DMP are banned! No need for concern no matter how you slice it.

 

So what’s all the fuss about?

Great question. To which the answer is actually quite simple. This is and has been a classic case of opportunistic people preying on misinformed people.

Do most people know that there are different types of phthalates with different chemical profiles that affect different things? No. Do most people care? No. Should they? Yes. 

This is quite literally all that has happened. 

There were 3 common phthalates. One was discovered to be dangerous and banned. The other was discovered to be somewhat dangerous under specific conditions, and was banned across the board anyways. The other is perfectly fine.

Despite only one - the one that was, is, and will always be safe - even being in the marketplace, they have all been lumped together, and demonized as such.

Imagine someone tried to tell you that beautiful grilled portobello was poisonous because other mushrooms were too? 

 

Does Basic Maintenance use phthalates?

No. But again, we could and all would be perfectly fine. This just happens to be yet another instance of fear-mongering that has prevailed to the point it’s nearly impossible for young, start-up brands to risk using them. Public perception and consumer demands - no matter how misguided they may be - are still real factors to consider when formulating a product. With a strong majority of consumers convinced about the damaging effects of phthalates, we felt it necessary to avoid them.

 

Sources

 

Full ECHA Dossier on Dibutyl Phthalate https://echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/04f79b21-0b6d-4e67-91b9-0a70d4ea7500

Official report from the US Consumer Product Safety Commission on Dibutyl Phthalate https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/ToxicityReviewOfDBP.pdf

SCCS (2007) Opinion on Phthalates in Cosmetic Products https://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_106.pdf

Australian Government. (2008) Existing Chemical Hazard Report, Dibutyl Phthalate. https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/sites/default/files/Dibutyl%20phthalate%20DBP.pdf

EPA (2000) Leaflet on Dibutyl Phthalate https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2016-09/documents/dibutyl-phthalate.pdf

US department of health and human services.(2001) Toxicological Profile for DI-n-ButylPhthalate.  https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp135.pdf

 

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The All-BS List of Product Claims: SLS FREE

The All-BS List of Product Claims: SLS FREE
WTF is SLS?

It’s a type of sulfate. OK, what are sulfates? A class of cleansing surfactant. Great, what is a surfactant? Technically, it’s a portmanteau for “surface active agent”. Got it.

Anyways, for our purposes, cleansing surfactants are chemicals that stir up activity on the surface you are cleaning to help trap and remove dirt. Their molecular make-up is such that one portion cuts through water, and the other half through oil, so they can help remove dirt from your skin or hair..  

SLS, which stands for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate , is very good at this. The best, actually. It is not to be confused with Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), which people assume due to the closeness of their trade names. SLS is much stronger.

Both are produced from petroleum and plant sources such as coconut and palm oil.

You’ve probably only ever come across SLS when denoted by its ‘Free-From’ claim on products. There’s certainly no shortage of them. Ours included.

But are they bad for you? The short answer is ‘no, not really’. The long answer is ‘again, no, but bear with us’.

The most common refrains to backup SLS-Free claims are that they’re irritating, they’re carcinogenic, they’re drying, they’re eco-toxins, and they accumulate in your body. 

 

Is SLS irritating?

Sure. What it isn’t? This myth is irritating. Yet here we are, talking about it.

When it comes to the products you might find it in - soaps, washes, shampoos, detergents - concentrations usually range from 0.01% - 50%. The upper range is typically found in household cleaning products - which obviously don’t have the same irritancy concerns as a personal care product that you directly apply to yourself. Plus, they generally need to be more effective cleansers. 

Please note that just because SLS is used for industrial cleaners does not mean that it’s  automatically bad for a personal care product - it’s the concentration of it that matters. As the saying goes, the dose makes the poison. Think of it like a beer versus the equivalent liquid volume in whiskey. That extra 35% of alcohol makes quite a difference, doesn’t it?

Anyways, yes, SLS is one of the more irritating surfactants out there. The problem is, it’s irritating if either used, or formulated improperly. Any chemist worth even half a pinch of salt will know this.

Any studies that demonstrate irritancy beyond the usual human sensitivities or allergies, have generally been done so out of context. For example, with soaps, washes, and shampoos, what do you do? You rinse them out. You wash them off. You don’t just sit there with soap all over you for an extended period of time. And yet that is exactly the type of study that has pointed to its irritancy and amplified its vilification.

And when it comes to formulation, rarely, if ever, is SLS used in a personal care product without a “co-surfactant” that helps stabilize it and counteract any potential irritation. Remember, brands want you to like their products. Skin irritation is generally not on their list of product qualities to check off.

 

Is SLS toxic?

The. Dose. Makes. The. Poison. Again, for the people in the back. Every chemical has a toxic dose. Table salt has a toxic dose. 

“Acute Oral Toxicity” tends to be a major talking point when referencing SLS. This refers to the immediate danger of ingesting something, measured in terms of its median lethal dose, which is the amount needed to kill half of the lab rats getting that dose. 

Do you plan on drinking body wash? If you do, maybe what it’s formulated with isn’t your biggest problem.  

 

Is SLS carcinogenic or hormone disrupting?

No. There is absolutely no scientific evidence that supports this. There is nothing linking either SLS or SLES to cancer, infertifly or any developmental issues.

 

Is SLS drying?

As far as pure cleansing power goes, it’s among the most effective. So yes, it can dry out your skin, scalp or hair. It can strip it of its oils. If you have particularly dry skin, this would be a bit of a concern. However, one easily remedied by rehydrating and moisturizing.

 

Does SLS build up inside you?

While microscopic amounts can be absorbed if pure SLS is directly applied to your skin’s surface, even then, most of it just sits there. What might get absorbed is quickly metabolized by your liver and rapidly excreted. This is quite literally what your liver exists to do - detoxify you. 

 

Is SLS eco-friendly?

If it’s derived from palm oil, the destruction of rainforests for plantations is a problem. When it comes to aquatic toxicity, i.e. the short-term negative impacts to aquatic life - extremely high levels of SLS can be mildly toxic. However, the diluted amounts in personal care products - not so much. Not to mention by the time it goes down the drain, through your municipality’s in/out water filtration systems, and finally reaching a natural water source - it’s largely been reduced to nothing.  Oh, and it’s readily biodegradable.

 

So, should I avoid SLS?

No. But whether you choose to or not is entirely up to you. There’s no particular reason to avoid them unless you have an individual sensitivity towards them. It does not pose any risk to you or the environment if used correctly. If you find it too drying for your skin or hair, you are free to choose “Free From” products. But, if you have some products that contain SLS and you like them, don’t let all the bullshit scare you away.

 

Does Basic Maintenance use SLS?

No. But we could, and quite frankly, we should. It would be more cost-effective. This just happens to be an instance of fear-mongering that has prevailed to the point it’s nearly impossible for young, start-up brands to risk using them. 

Public perception and consumer demands - no matter how misguided they may be - are still real factors to consider when formulating a product. With a strong majority of consumers still convinced about the harmful effects of SLS, we felt it necessary to avoid it.

Once we have some more clout, maybe we’ll reconsider.

Sources

 

Bondi C et al. (2015) Human and Environmental Toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Evidence for Safe Use in Household Cleaning Products.Environ Health Insights. 2015; 9: 27–32. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4651417/

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Int J Toxicol. 2005; 24(1): 1–102. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818309142005

Green, K. Johnson, R.E. Chapman, J.M. Nelson, E. Cheeks, L. Preservative effects on the healing rate of rabbit corneal epithelium. Lens Eye Toxic Res. 1989; 6: 37–41. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2488029/

Gloxhuber, C. Künstler, K. Anionic Surfactants: Biochemistry, Toxicology, Dermatology. 2nd ed., Vol. 43. New York: Marcel Dekker; 1992. https://lib.ugent.be/en/catalog/rug01:000316118

Horita K et al. (2017) Effects of different base agents on prediction of skin irritation by sodium lauryl sulfate using patch testing and repeated application test. Toxicology 382:10-15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28274658/

De Jongh, C.M. Verberk, M.M. Withagen, C.E. Jacobs, J.J. Rustemeyer, T. Kezic, S. Stratum corneum cytokines and skin irritation response to sodium lauryl sulfate. Contact Dermatitis. 2006; 54(6): 325–33.  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16787454/

Lewis, M.A. Chronic and sublethal toxicities of surfactants to aquatic animals: a review and risk assessment. Water Res. 1991; 25(1): 101–13. https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.458.9723&rep=rep1&type=pdf

Karsa, D.R. Porter, M.R. , eds. Biodegradability of Surfactants. Glasgow: Blackie Academic & Professional; 1995. https://chempedia.info/info/biodegradability_of_surfactants/

Mizutani T et al. (2016) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Stimulates the Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species through Interactions with Cell Membranes. J Oleo Sci. 65(12):993-1001. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27829611/

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