You’ve heard it all...

“Fragrance is toxic.”
“Fragrance disrupts hormones.”
“Fragrance is why your skin is irritated.”

And honestly… I get why people latch onto it.

Because “fragrance” is vague.
It sounds like a cover-up word.
It’s everywhere.
And when someone’s skin is acting up, we all want a clean culprit we can point to.

But here’s the problem.

Most people have strong feelings about fragrance…without actually knowing what it is.

So before we decide whether fragrance is harmless or harmful, we should do something that’s become strangely rare in skincare:

Let’s define the term first.

Then we can talk about the myths.

And then we can talk about what actually matters.

What Is “Fragrance,” Technically?

On an ingredient list, “fragrance” (or “parfum”) is what’s called a composite ingredient.

That simply means it’s a blend.

Instead of being a single molecule, it’s a mixture of aromatic compounds combined to create a specific scent.

Those compounds can be:

• Synthetic aroma molecules

• Naturally derived aroma isolates

• Essential oils

• Or a combination of all three

So fragrance is not “one chemical.”

It’s a small formula inside a bigger formula.

That’s it.

Why Is It Listed As One Ingredient?

This is where labeling confuses people.

Ingredient lists are meant to tell you what ingredients are present — not to itemize every chemical compound inside each ingredient.

If labels had to list every constituent molecule inside every ingredient:

• A botanical extract would need a paragraph

• Essential oils would need a textbook

• And your ingredient list would be longer than your mortgage agreement

In other words: it becomes impractical fast.

Fragrance is listed as “fragrance” because it is a blend.

There is also an intellectual property layer (some fragrance formulas are proprietary), but that’s not the main reason you see one word.

The main reason is simply: it’s a composite ingredient.

And importantly, fragrance materials still need to comply with cosmetic regulations and safety standards, including guidelines set by IFRA (International Fragrance Association), which evaluates safe concentrations by product type.

Now that we’ve defined fragrance…

We can talk about why it triggers so much fear.

The Fragrance Myths (And What’s Actually True)

Fragrance is one of those ingredients that gets discussed like it’s either:

• Completely harmless, or

• A chemical weapon

Neither is accurate.

So let’s go myth by myth.

Myth #1: “Natural fragrance is safer than synthetic fragrance.”

This is one of the most persistent myths in skincare.

And it’s also the easiest to break.

Poison ivy is natural.
So is arsenic.

Insulin is synthetic.
99.99% of the Vitamin C used in supplements and skincare is synthetic.

Just think about how much vegetation would be required to satisfy the world's vitamin C demands...

Your skin does not care where something came from.

It cannot read “natural” on a label and relax.

It only responds to chemical structure and exposure.

In fact, some “natural fragrances” can be more reactive, because essential oils contain dozens of aromatic compounds, some of which are well-known sensitizers.

So no:

Natural does not automatically mean gentler.
Synthetic does not automatically mean harsher.

Safety is chemistry, not vibes.

Which brings us to the next myth.

Myth #2: “If it’s in the product, it must be doing something.”

Fragrance doesn’t improve skin function.

It doesn’t hydrate.
It doesn’t strengthen the barrier.
It doesn’t reduce pigmentation.
It doesn’t increase collagen.

Its job is sensory.

And sensory has value. We’re humans, not robots.

But there’s a difference between feeling good and doing good for skin.

Fragrance can make a routine more enjoyable.

But if someone has sensitive skin, that enjoyment may come with a tradeoff.

Which leads to what most people actually mean when they say “fragrance is bad.”

They’re talking about irritation.

Myth #3: “Fragrance is toxic.”

This is where the conversation usually goes off the rails.

Because most fragrance concerns are not about toxicity.

They’re about irritation and sensitization.

Those are different things.

So let’s define them in plain English:

Irritation means the skin barrier is being disrupted directly — stinging, burning, tightness, redness.

Sensitization means your immune system decides it no longer likes a substance — often after repeated exposure over time.

And this is critical...

Skin reactions are usually a function of dose, exposure, and duration.

How much.
How often.
How long it stays on your skin.

A small amount in a rinse-off cleanser? Low exposure.

A strongly scented leave-on cream used daily? Higher exposure.

Also worth noting: fragrance reactions tend to show up as:

• Stinging or burning

• Itching

• Persistent redness

• Tiny uniform bumps

• Often around the eyes, jawline, or neck

Not always dramatic. Often just “my skin feels off.”

So the more accurate statement isn’t:

“Fragrance is toxic.”

It’s:

Fragrance can be a common trigger for irritation or allergy — especially in leave-on facial products and especially when the barrier is already compromised.

Which leads to an important distinction.

Myth #4: “It doesn’t matter whether it’s rinse-off or leave-on.”

It matters a lot.

Rinse-off products (shampoo, body wash, hand soap) sit on your skin briefly and are washed away.

Leave-on products (creams, serums) stay on your skin for hours.

Exposure time is completely different.

And there’s another layer:

Facial skin is thinner and more reactive than body skin.

So something your arms tolerate beautifully may irritate your face.

That’s not you being “sensitive.”

That’s facial physiology.

Which brings us to the myth that tends to get the most fear attached to it.

---

Myth #5: “Fragrance disrupts hormones because of phthalates.”

This one needs calm clarification.

Phthalates are a family of compounds used in many industries.

The mistake people make is assuming:

If some phthalates are a problem in industrial plastics, then any mention of “phthalates” in cosmetics must mean danger.

That’s like saying...

“Some mushrooms are poisonous, therefore all mushrooms are deadly.”

The only phthalate still used in personal care worldwide is diethyl phthalate (DEP).

DEP has been repeatedly evaluated and is considered safe at cosmetic exposure levels.

The phthalates associated with endocrine disruption concerns — like DBP and DMP — were phased out of cosmetics back decades ago.

They’re not relevant to modern regulated cosmetic fragrance systems - because they don't exist in them.

So this myth persists mostly because:

• “phthalates” sounds scary

• industrial exposure headlines get generalized

• nuance disappears

• fear spreads

Now, does that mean you have to go ahead and fall back in love with fragrance?

No.

It means the endocrine panic is usually aimed at the wrong target.

If fragrance is an issue for you, it’s far more likely to be irritation, not hormones.

Which brings us to what actually matters in real life.

The Only Question That Matters: How Does Your Skin Respond?

This is the part that makes people feel sane again.

Because you don’t need to become a toxicologist.

You just need to understand the variables:

• Where is it used? (face vs body)

• How long is it sitting there? (leave-on vs rinse-off)

• How compromised is the barrier? (especially after 40–50+)

If your skin tolerates fragrance beautifully, great. Enjoy it. Love it. 

If your skin reacts to fragrance, also great — now you know the variable to remove.

No moral judgment required.

Just data.

Now, let’s talk about how we handle it.

---

Where We Use Fragrance (And Why)

We are not anti-fragrance.

We’re pro-context.

Shampoo & Conditioner

We use essential oils — tea tree, peppermint, eucalyptus — where fragrance is secondary to function.

We chose them for their documented benefits for hair and scalp:

• Tea tree: antimicrobial support

• Peppermint: scalp stimulation and circulation support

• Eucalyptus: cooling and soothing properties

These products rinse off. Exposure is brief. The benefits are real.

Body Wash

We use fragrance — vanilla, sandalwood, cedarwood, bergamot — because we wanted something neutral but rich. Clean, grounding, not perfumey.

Again: rinse-off. Brief exposure. Body skin is typically more resilient.

Hand Soap

We use essential oils — patchouli, orange oil, cedarwood — because we wanted something that feels clean and slightly uplifting without being sharp.

Again: rinse-off.

Short contact time.

---

Where We Don’t Use Fragrance (And Why)

We don’t use fragrance in any leave-on products.

No essential oils.
No aromatic additives.

Leave-on exposure is cumulative.

And when an ingredient doesn’t improve skin function, we don’t include it in products that sit on it all day.

Not because fragrance is evil.

Because it’s unnecessary.

And unnecessary exposure is still exposure.

---

Final Word

Fragrance isn’t a villain.

It’s just another tool. And like any tool, it depends how it’s used.

Skincare doesn’t need absolutes.

It needs context.

If fragrance works for you, enjoy it.

If it doesn’t, remove it.

But either way, you can stop guessing.

Because now you understand the framework:

How much.
Where.
How long.
And what condition the skin is in.

Fear is loud.

Physiology is quiet.

We prefer quiet.

---

Sources

• Johansen JD, et al. Fragrance contact allergy: a review. Contact Dermatitis. 2003.

• Thyssen JP, et al. Contact sensitization to fragrances in the general population. Contact Dermatitis. 2009.

• Basketter DA, et al. Skin sensitization and exposure assessment: relevance of dose and frequency. Food Chem Toxicol. 2014.

• IFRA (International Fragrance Association). IFRA Standards & Safety Assessments.

• European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinions on fragrance allergens and cosmetic safety.

• Api AM. Toxicological profile of diethyl phthalate (DEP). Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2001.

• U.S. FDA. Cosmetics and phthalates: safety and regulatory overview.

• Elias PM, Feingold KR. Skin barrier function and barrier repair. J Invest Dermatol. 2006.

• Draelos ZD. Effects of cleansing and topical products on barrier function. Dermatol Clin. 2012.

Continue reading

"Why don’t you use niacinamide?"

It’s usually asked politely. Sometimes curiously. Occasionally with suspicion.

Because niacinamide has become The Ingredient.

It promises:

• Smaller-looking pores

• A stronger barrier

• Less redness

• More even tone

• Smoother texture

In short: everything.

So if it does everything… why isn’t it in our formulas?

Are we behind? Missing something? Ignoring what your daughter saw on TikTok at midnight?

No.

The answer isn’t dramatic. It’s deliberate.

Two words...

Redundancy and restraint.

But before we get there - let’s be fair.

---

First: Niacinamide Works

Niacinamide is vitamin B3. It’s well studied. At 2–5%, it’s generally well tolerated.

Research shows it can:

• Increase ceramide synthesis

• Improve barrier function

• Reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

• Calm redness

• Modestly regulate oil

• Improve uneven pigmentation

These are legitimate findings. Not marketing copy.

So let’s be clear...

We are not anti-niacinamide.

It’s not a scam. It’s not inherently irritating. It’s not useless.

But it is something very specific.

It’s a signaling molecule.

And that’s where the conversation changes.

---

What a Signaling Molecule Actually Is

A signaling molecule is simply an ingredient that tells your skin to do something.

It doesn’t build anything.
It doesn’t replace what’s missing.
It sends instructions.

“Make more ceramides.”
“Reduce inflammation.”
“Slow pigment transfer.”

That’s signaling.

Now compare that to structural support.

Structural support means supplying the actual materials the skin uses to function - the lipids, the water-binding molecules, the architectural components.

Signaling says: “Work harder.”

Structure says: “Here’s what you’re missing.”

That difference sounds small.

It isn’t.

Because instructions only work when the system receiving them is capable of responding properly.

And that’s where most of the nuance lives.

---

Niacinamide Doesn’t Work in Isolation

One of niacinamide’s headline benefits is this...

“It increases ceramide production.”

Excellent. We like ceramides.

But a healthy barrier isn’t “more ceramides.”

It’s a balanced mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids - in very specific ratios.

Add more of one without enough of the others, and you don’t rebuild the barrier. You create imbalance.

It’s like adding bricks to a wall without reinforcing the mortar. You’ve technically added material - but the structure isn’t stronger.

Now add age...

As we get older:

• Lipid production declines

• Cholesterol decreases

• Fatty acid composition shifts

• Barrier recovery slows

So yes, you can stimulate ceramide production.

But if the rest of the lipid environment is depleted, the effect is modest.

Helpful? Yes.

Foundational? Rarely.

And we’re still not done.

---

Barrier Repair Requires Water

Here’s the part almost no one explains.

Barrier repair isn’t passive.

Your skin repairs itself through chemical reactions.
Chemical reactions require enzymes.
Enzymes require water.

No water? Slower repair.

And mature skin is almost always more dehydrated than younger skin.

So telling dehydrated skin to “produce more ceramides” without restoring hydration first is like telling a factory to increase output while the lights are flickering.

The memo is clear. The machinery can’t keep up.

And then there’s pH...

Niacinamide is most stable between pH 5–7. In overly acidic, over-exfoliated environments, it can convert to nicotinic acid - which causes flushing.

So, all of this to say... it's not that niacinamide fails.

It that it behaves according to the conditions you give it.

Because it’s just a messenger.

And messengers perform best when the system is stable.

So the real question isn’t: “Does niacinamide work?”

It’s: “Is my skin in a condition where signaling alone is enough?”

And that brings us to the first reason we omitted it: redundancy.

---

Reason #1: Redundancy

Niacinamide stimulates ceramide production.

Our formulas supply the lipid architecture directly.

Niacinamide says:

“Skin, please make more building material.”

We say:

“Here’s the building material.”

Skin-identical lipids, cholesterol, free fatty acids, hydration etc... all supporting water retention and barrier function

Instead of increasing metabolic demand on aging skin, we reinforce structure directly.

Especially in mature skin - where synthesis naturally slows - reducing workload is often more efficient than increasing instruction.

Could we add niacinamide?

Of course.

Would it meaningfully improve outcomes in a structurally complete system?

No.

Once the barrier is supported in correct physiological ratios, additional signaling becomes redundant.

Not harmful. Just unnecessary.

And unnecessary ingredients increase complexity without improving results.

That’s not minimalism for aesthetics.

That’s just discipline.

---

Why Niacinamide Became a Star

It’s:

• Stable

• Affordable

• Multi-functional

• Easy to formulate

• Compatible with almost everything

From a development standpoint, it’s efficient.

From a marketing standpoint, it’s gold.

One molecule.

Multiple claims.

“Improves pores.”
“Reduces redness.”
“Strengthens barrier.”
“Boosts glow.”

That’s elegant storytelling.

But elegant storytelling isn’t the same thing as essential formulation.

The industry rewards visibility.

We reward outcome.

Those are not always aligned.

---

Reason #2: Restraint

Aging skin plays by different rules.

After 40, 50, 60+:

• Epidermal thickness decreases

• Lipid production slows

• TEWL increases

• Barrier recovery takes longer

• Inflammatory thresholds drop

Skin becomes less tolerant of cumulative stimulation.

And modern routines are stacked.

Niacinamide. Retinol. Exfoliating acids. Vitamin C. Peptides. Toners. Low-pH cleansers.

Each one defensible on its own.

Together? Overstimulating.

At 2–5%, niacinamide is typically tolerated well.

At 10% - now common - flushing and barrier reactivity increase.

Even good ingredients become problematic when layered without restraint.

We formulate for stability.

Not escalation.
Not intensity.
Not “results in seven days.”

Stability.

Because mature skin thrives on predictability more than potency.

---

There’s Always Another Way

No one actually wants niacinamide.

They want what they believe it will deliver.

Stronger barrier.
Less oil.
More even tone.
Smoother texture.

They’re chasing outcomes.

So let’s talk outcomes.

If the goal is barrier strength — niacinamide can stimulate ceramide production.

Or you can supply lipids directly in the ratios your skin already recognizes.

If the goal is oil balance — niacinamide can attempt to regulate signaling.

Or you can restore hydration and reduce TEWL so oil normalizes naturally.

If the goal is smoother texture — niacinamide can push cellular pathways.

Or you can restore water and lipid integrity so roughness softens because the surface is no longer depleted.

If the goal is even tone — niacinamide can interfere with pigment transfer.

Or you can calm inflammation and reinforce structural resilience.

See the pattern?

Niacinamide asks your skin to perform better.

A well-built system removes the reasons it wasn’t performing well in the first place.

One is instruction.

The other is infrastructure.

Infrastructure ages better than instruction.

Because why ask your skin to work harder…

When you can simply stop making it struggle?

---

The Bigger Lesson

This isn’t just about niacinamide.

It’s about ingredient culture.

The belief that:

If something works, more must be better.
If something is popular, it must be essential.

But healthy skin is rarely built through escalation.

It’s built through balance.

If your skin loves niacinamide, wonderful.

But in the system we’ve built, it would be redundant.

And in aging skin, restraint is often more powerful than addition.

When the foundation is structurally supported…

You don’t need louder signals.
You don’t need trending percentages.
You don’t need constant correction.

You need fewer interruptions.

Skin that functions quietly...almost unnoticed - without being pushed daily - is far more impressive than skin that requires constant management.

That’s not trend-driven.

It’s just good architecture.

---

Sources

Tanno O et al. Nicotinamide increases ceramide biosynthesis and improves barrier function. Br J Dermatol. 2000.

Bissett DL et al. Topical niacinamide improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2004.

Bouwstra JA et al. Structure of the stratum corneum lipid matrix. J Lipid Res. 2003.

Fluhr JW et al. Glycerol accelerates barrier recovery. Acta Derm Venereol. 1999.

Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004.

Continue reading

You notice it in photos first.

Your hair was cool, ash, icy even...
But now it looks off.

A little warmer. A little yellow. A little “meh.”

So you reach for the fix everyone suggests: Purple shampoo.

But does it actually work?

Or are we all just caught in a violet-hued loop of wash, hope, repeat?

Let’s untangle it.

Because while purple shampoo can help—most people use it wrong, expect too much from it, or don’t understand what it’s actually for.

---

Why Hair Turns Brassy In The First Place

Brassiness isn’t random. It’s chemistry.

Hair turns yellow, orange, or red-hued when:

• The underlying pigments from your natural hair start to show through (especially after lightening)

• Mineral buildup from water (iron, copper, calcium) distorts color

• Oxidation (sun, heat, air pollution) breaks down cool-toned dyes or bleaches

• Or your toner fades—because toners are temporary and always will be

So the warmth you're seeing? It's what’s left behind when the ash fades.

---

Enter: Purple Shampoo

Purple sits opposite yellow on the color wheel.

So when a violet pigment sits on top of yellow tones, it neutralizes them—visually, at least.

That’s why purple shampoo is often pitched as a magic fix.
But here’s the reality:

• It only works on the outer hair shaft

• It’s not permanent

• It doesn’t “lighten” or “brighten”—it masks

And overuse? Can do more harm than good.

---

The Truth About Purple Shampoo Ingredients

Most purple shampoos include:

• Basic surfactants (for cleansing)

• Temporary violet dyes (usually Basic Violet 2 or Acid Violet 43)

• Conditioners or silicones (to offset dryness)

And many are incredibly drying. Why?

Because:

1. The pigment molecules don’t stick well to oily or coated hair—so formulas are often made harsher to “prep” the strand.

2. People tend to overuse them, hoping more purple = better tone correction.

End result? Hair that’s toned... but fried.

---

Who Should Actually Use Purple Shampoo?

It’s helpful for:

✅ Blonde, silver, or grey hair
✅ Hair that was once cool-toned but has turned warm
✅ People with hard water exposure or UV fade

But only if:

• Your hair is clean enough for pigments to grab

• You’re not relying on it to “fix” damaged color

• You use it sparingly, not daily

---

Who Should Be Cautious?

Purple shampoo isn’t for everyone.

⚠️ If your hair is very dry, brittle, or porous—it can stain or worsen the texture.
⚠️ If your hair isn’t brassy—it can create a dull, violet cast instead of brightness.
⚠️ If you have natural grey or white hair—it may turn lavender.

More pigment isn’t better. It’s just... more purple.

---

How To Use Purple Shampoo (If You Use It At All)

1. Cleanse first with a gentle, non-coating shampoo (you want pigment to bind evenly).

2. Use purple shampoo like a treatment, not a cleanser:

   • Once a week max

   • Apply mid-shaft to ends (not scalp)

   • Leave on 1–3 minutes max

3. Follow with a real conditioner (because purple formulas are often drying)

4. Rotate with clarifying shampoo monthly if you notice dullness or over-toning

---

What To Do Instead (Or Along Side It)

If you’re constantly chasing brassiness, purple shampoo isn’t your problem.

Try this instead:

• Clarify your water: Hard water minerals distort color. A filter helps.

• Use antioxidant-rich products: To prevent oxidation and UV fade

• Choose better shampoo: Many “moisture” shampoos leave coatings that interfere with toners or pigment

• Protect from sun + heat: Use a UV barrier or hat

• Consider re-toning: Toners are designed for this, purple shampoo is not

---

Final Word: Treat The Cause, Not Just The Color

Purple shampoo is a tool. Not a treatment.

It doesn’t repair hair.
It doesn’t fix bad color.
It doesn’t prevent fade.

It just masks warmth temporarily—and if you’re not careful, it creates new problems in the process.

Real color care means starting with clean hair, supporting it with moisture, and protecting it from what caused the brassiness to begin with.

Otherwise?

You’re just purple-washing the problem.

SOURCES

• Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012.
  (A definitive resource on hair structure, porosity, and cosmetic effects.)

• Waring M, Gummer CL. Contact Dermatitis from Hair-Care Products. Contact Dermatitis. 2006.
  (Discusses irritants, sensitizers, and ingredient reactions, including dyes and preservatives.)

• McMichael AJ, et al. Hair Care Practices in Women of Color. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009.
  (Includes discussion on toning shampoos and chemical treatments affecting porosity and brittleness.)

• Draelos ZD. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. Int J Trichology. 2010.
  (Reviews various hair product types, their mechanisms, and dermatological impact.)

• Nishikawa M, et al. Role of pH in Skin and Scalp Health. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018.
  (Explores how pH affects scalp barrier and product efficacy.)

• Raposo NRB, et al. Effects of Hair Dyes on Hair Properties. J Cosmet Sci. 2015.
  (Details the interaction of oxidative dyeing and porosity with toner effectiveness.)

• Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Purple Shampoo and Optical Brighteners: How They Work (2020).
  (A trade explanation of violet pigments, color theory, and limitations of toning agents.)

Continue reading

What if your shampoo is the reason your hair never feels clean?

You wash. It smells great. It lathers. It feels… fine.

But by day two? Your roots are limp, your ends feel dry, and your scalp’s back to producing oil like it’s in business with a deep fryer.

So you try a “clarifying” shampoo. It works—sort of. Until things get worse.

So you try something for “moisture.”

Then something for “volume.”

Then something sulfate-free, then something silicone-free, then something your stylist swears by, then something you saw on TikTok at 1 a.m.

And still… your hair doesn’t feel like it used to.

Here’s the hard truth: most shampoos aren’t made to clean.

They’re made to feel clean.

And that’s not the same thing.

---

Most Shampoos Don’t Clean—They Coat

The shampoos people reach for today are designed for immediate feel—not real cleansing.

Many formulas include ingredients originally meant for conditioners—like silicones, cationic polymers, and heavy emollients—to produce an instant sensation of softness or smoothness.

These polymers bond with hair fibers to reduce friction and impart a silky feel, even when the product isn’t actually removed completely.

That “nice” feeling after rinsing can be misleading. It’s not a true clean—it’s a film.

Over time, that film builds up. On the scalp. On the strands. Between the cuticles. And suddenly:

• Roots look flat

• Oils run fast again

• Texture feels off

• Buildup becomes persistent

And then you’re told you need a clarifying shampoo.

---

The Clarifying Shampoo Loop

Clarifying shampoos are basically strong detergents in disguise: they strip away buildup fast, including waxy residues and conditioning polymers. But the side effect is real skin disruption.

Harsh cleansers, especially those with high‑pH formulas or strong surfactants, can disrupt the scalp’s barrier and microbiome balance, leading to dryness, tightness, or even rebound oil production as your scalp tries to compensate.

So you:

1. Coat hair

2. Strip it with clarifiers

3. Coat it again

4. Get frustrated

And rinse repeat.

That’s not healthy hair care. That’s a cycle of conceal → remove → repeat.

---

What Should Shampoo Do?

At its core, shampoo should:

✅ Remove excess oil and debris
✅ Cleanse the scalp environment (where growth and balance begin)
✅ Rinse completely without residue
❌ Not act like a conditioner disguised as a cleanser

A proper clean leaves hair:

• Light at the roots

• Naturally soft, not artificially slick

• Easier to manage with real hydration

• Responsive to care, not smothered by product

This is what clean hair feels like beyond the shower.

---

So Why Do Some Shampoos Include Conditioning Ingredients?

Not all conditioning agents are inherently bad.

Many shampoos use light, water‑soluble conditioning polymers or slip agents to help with feel and manageability without heavy buildup—especially for people with fine or brittle hair.

That’s why we include select supportive ingredients like:

• Polyquaternium‑7 — a water‑soluble conditioning polymer that reduces breakage and improves combability without heavy, persistent film.

• Hydrolyzed keratin & light botanical oils — chosen in micro‑dose to help hair feel manageable while still rinsing clean.

• Ammonium laureth sulfate — a gentler, more water-soluble surfactant than traditional SLS/SLES, providing effective cleansing without harsh stripping.

We aren’t trying to fake softness.

We are trying to support true scalp and hair resilience.

Think of it like seasoning. A little helps the formula perform. A lot weighs it down.

---

The Two‑Week Reset Timeline: What Really Happens

When you switch to a cleaner shampoo, some things feel different—not worse, just unfamiliar.

Here’s the real timeline most people experience:

Days 1–3: “Why does this feel so... 'light'?”

Without film‑forming residue, hair can feel static or a bit dry. That’s because your hair is actually clean for the first time in a while. It’s not stripped; it’s simply not coated anymore. Again, this is what bare hair feels like.

If you have curls: They may look looser or less defined at first. That’s not damage — it’s detox. You’ve removed the synthetic coating that was artificially keeping curls tight. As your oil production rebalances, curl memory returns — naturally, not forcefully.

Days 4–7: Oil production starts to rebalance

When the scalp isn’t compensating for heavy buildup, sebum production naturally adjusts. You may see less oil between washes.

This shift reflects healthier scalp homeostasis, which has been linked to balanced oil and microbial equilibrium in research.

Days 8–14: Normal hair rhythms return

Your hair looks cleaner longer. Scalp feels more comfortable. Products like conditioners start working as designed, because there’s no interference from residual buildup.

You’re no longer fighting your own hair.

This isn’t a detox.
It’s a recalibration.

Hair care isn’t about more, it’s about less interference — and better support.

And how often should you wash?

If your hair is generally clean, skip a day. Daily washing can dry out even the healthiest scalps — regardless of the shampoo.

But if you’re sweating daily, or using styling products or dry shampoo regularly, yes — you should wash. You want to remove buildup before it becomes a problem.

---

Conditioner Has Its Job. So Let It Do It

Shampoo is meant to clean the canvas.
Conditioner is meant to care for it.

It’s a relay race, not a wrestling match.

A good conditioner does three main things:

1. Rehydrates after cleansing (especially the cuticle)

2. Smooths the hair shaft to reduce friction, frizz, and breakage

3. Adds back moisture — strategically, not indiscriminately

But here’s the issue:

When your shampoo already coats the hair in oils, polymers, or silicones...
The conditioner can’t land.
It just sits on top. Or worse — it competes.

Instead of nourishing the hair fiber, it’s stuck trying to work through the layer the shampoo left behind.

That’s not synergy. That’s interference.

The result?

You don’t get the softness where you need it.
You get build-up where you don’t.
And over time, your hair gets dull, weighed down, and unresponsive.

That’s why our Head Turning Hair system is designed the way it is:

• The Shampoo removes what shouldn’t be there.

• The Conditioner delivers what should.

Not in one step. Not in one bottle.

In sequence. With intention.

And it works — because each product respects the job it was made to do.

---

Final Word: Know the Difference Between Feel and Function

Most people don’t need more silicones.
What they need is clarity.

Not to chase softness.
Not to mask.
Not to overcorrect with harsher stripping.

To get hair that feels like hair again — not product residue.

When you stop coating your hair to feel clean, you actually get clean.

Your scalp can regulate.
Your strands can behave.
Your conditioner can perform.

And your hair can feel like hair — not a cover‑up.

That’s what clean hair really is.

---

SOURCES

• Journal of Cosmetic Science – conditioning polymers in shampoo formulations and their interaction with hair fibers.

• PMC article explaining shampoo composition including conditioning additives and their function.

• Analysis of surfactants, lipid integrity, and hair/scalp cleansing dynamics.

• Harsh cleansers and stripping effects on skin barrier and irritation potential.

• Scalp microbiome relevance to scalp health and sebum regulation.

• Discussion on sulfate surfactants like ammonium laureth sulfate used in shampoos.

• Overview of scalp condition care and role of cleansing without disrupting the microbiome.

Continue reading

Let’s talk about dry lips.

Not the “oops, forgot water today” kind.

I mean chronic, cracky, flaky lips. The ones that make lipstick a joke. That wake you up at 3am begging for relief. That somehow feel worse the more balm you use.

If that’s you? You’re not crazy.
You’re not lazy.
And no, you’re not just missing “the right vanilla-mint flavor.”

You’re trapped in a broken cycle.
One that no pretty balm or glossy stick is going to solve.

But once you understand what’s really happening?

Fixing it gets simple.

---

The Real Reason Your Lips Stay Dry

It comes down to this:

Your lips are structurally different from the rest of your skin.
And most products ignore that entirely.

Here’s what makes lips uniquely vulnerable:

✅ 1. No oil glands. Zero.

Your skin has sebaceous (oil) glands that help trap water and build a barrier.

Your lips? Don’t.
They rely 100% on external moisture protection.

That means they’re constantly losing water—with nothing to lock it in.

✅ 2. The thinnest skin on your face

Lips are technically “mucocutaneous tissue”—transitional zones between internal and external environments.

Translation?
Thinner skin = faster evaporation.

✅ 3. Movement dries them out

Every time you talk, laugh, breathe, or sip—air rushes over your lips and strips moisture.

It’s like standing in front of a fan. All day. Naked.

✅ 4. Licking makes it worse

You already know this. But here’s why:

• Saliva contains digestive enzymes (it’s made to break things down)

• It evaporates fast

• And leaves your lips worse off than before

Each lick is like pressing “undo” on your last 3 hours of hydration.

✅ 5. Weather wrecks them

Cold air. Dry heat. Wind. Indoor heating. AC.

Your lips don’t have the protective oil barrier your face does. So the elements hit harder and faster.

---

The Real Problem Isn’t Lack of Moisture…

It’s Lack of Retention.

Here’s the part no balm brand puts on the label:

Dry lips aren’t just dry. They’re unprotected.

Most balms are just surface slicks:

• A bit of wax

• Some scent

• Maybe a seed oil

They feel nice. For about 4 minutes.

Then you take a sip of water, and it’s gone.
Reapply. Again. Again. Again.

That’s not hydration.
That’s illusion.

And worse? Many balms actually prevent your lips from healing by trapping bacteria or blocking air exchange.

So the cycle continues:
Dry → Coat → Evaporate → Drier → Coat Again

---

So... What Actually Works?

You don’t need a new balm.

You need a barrier builder.

One that mimics your skin’s natural defenses.
One that doesn’t just sit there—but participates in repair.

There’s only one ingredient we’ve found that does this:

Anhydrous Medical-Grade Lanolin

No glitter. No gloss.
Just what works.

---

Why Lanolin Is the Fix (Not the Band-Aid)

🔬 It acts like your own skin oils

Lanolin’s molecular structure closely resembles your skin’s natural lipids.

So it gets absorbed, not just smeared.

It blends into your barrier and helps rebuild it—instead of replacing it temporarily.

💧 It holds water like a sponge

Lanolin can bind over twice its weight in water.

So instead of sitting on top, it pulls hydration in and keeps it there.

That’s the difference between feeling better… and actually being better.

🧠 It teaches your lips to stay hydrated

Over time, lanolin helps restore your lips’ ability to hold onto moisture—so they don’t go into panic mode every 3 hours.

---

Why Most Balms Don’t Even Come Close

Let’s compare:

	Basic Balms	The Lip Fix
Hydrating?	✘ Mostly superficial	✅ Deep + lasting
Occlusive?	✅ Sometimes too much	✅ Smart seal
Bioactive?	✘ Usually not	✅ Yes (bio-identical lipids)
Reapply cycle?	✅ Constant	✘ Rare
Formula type	Emulsion + filler	100% anhydrous

No waxy drag. No minty tingle.
No 17-flavor carousel. Just function.

---

This Isn’t a “Balm.” It’s a Bio-Compatible Repair System.

That’s why we call it:

The Lip Fix

One ingredient. One tin.
And enough punch to:

✔ Stop the reapply cycle
✔ Heal cracks, flakes, and tightness
✔ Protect through dry air, heaters, flights
✔ Even calm cuticles, elbows, heels—and yes, dog paws too

And because it contains no water:

• No spoilage

• No mold

• No preservatives

• No expiration drama

It’s shelf-stable for years.

One jar can last a long time—because you won’t need it hourly.

---

What Makes It Medical-Grade?

Lanolin has been used for decades to:

• Soothe nursing mothers’ cracked nipples

• Heal wounds and abrasions

• Treat chafing from prosthetics or diabetes monitors

• Protect livestock from machine rub and weather (yep, cow udders)

If it can survive that…

Your dry lips are no match.

---

The Truth About “Cute” Lip Care

Look—we love aesthetics. But when your lips are cracked and sore?

You don’t need another candy-scented placebo.
You need a fix.

Hydrated lips look better. Feel better. Age slower.
And they don’t need makeup to look alive.

Because when your lips are functional, not just coated—
You can actually forget about them.

No more purse full of half-used sticks.
No more morning-after regret.
No more bedtime panic swipes.

Just quiet, healthy skin where you want it most.

---

Try The Lip Fix

Because your lips aren’t needy.

They’re just naked.

And one good barrier is all they’ve ever asked for.

👉 Check out the lip fix now.
(Your lips will notice the difference before you even finish the tin.)

Sources Cited

Why Lips Dry & Barrier Biology

1. Fluhr JW, Darlenski R. Barrier function and skin care. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2018.
   — Explains how skin barrier dysfunction drives transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
   https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/487724

2. Elias PM, Choi EH. Interactions among stratum corneum defensive functions. Exp Dermatol. 2005.
   — Discusses lipid barriers and why areas with fewer lipids (like lips) are more vulnerable to water loss.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15890311/

3. Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004.
   — Foundational review of skin barrier and moisturization mechanisms.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15299684/

4. 4. Leveque JL, et al. Effect of saliva on transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum hydration. Dermatology. 1998.
   — Shows how saliva contact worsens moisture loss on skin surfaces.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9713335/

5. Lodén M. The clinical benefit of moisturizers. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 20 - Moisturizer mechanisms & why occlusion alone often isn’t enough.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15603956/

6. Draelos ZD. Skin barrier repair mechanisms. Cutis. 2004.
   — Reviews the role of lipids and barrier repair in topical therapy.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15069223/

7. 7. Thyssen JP, et al. Allergic contact dermatitis from lanolin derivatives. Contact Dermatitis. 2016.
   — Lanolin is safe for most; sensitization is rare and typically tied to hydrous lanolin, not medical anhydrous lanolin.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26861643/

8. Krestin E, et al. Use of lanolin in nipple care for breastfeeding mothers. J Hum Lact. 2015.
   — Clinical support for lanolin’s barrier-protective and moisture-retentive properties.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25492776/

9. Kruss B, et al. Wound healing with lanolin-based ointments. Wounds. 2016.
   — Durable hydration and barrier support from lanolin in wound care contexts.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27032612/

10. 10. Gilchrest BA. Skin aging and photoaging: An overview. J Invest Dermatol Symp Proc. 1989.
    — Classic overview of age-related barrier decline and moisture loss.
    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2610269/

11. Fartasch M. Epidermal barrier recovery. Dermatology. 2002.
    — Describes how compromised barriers retain less moisture — relevant to lips’ unique anatomy.
    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12446606/

Continue reading

This isn’t about whether you should wear makeup.

This is about how you take care of the skin underneath it - so whatever look you wear, it reflects something real.

Because makeup isn’t a mask. It’s a medium. And your skin deserves to be treated like the canvas it is.

You’re not “too old” for anything. You’ve earned the right to do what feels good - whether that’s going bare-faced, full-face, or somewhere in between.

Let's make sure your skin gets a vote.

And if you're here, it probably means you've started wondering something a little uncomfortable: “Is this hurting my skin?”

So let’s talk about it - honestly, factually, without the fear or the fluff.

---

What Makeup Actually Is

“Makeup” isn’t a single thing - it’s a whole universe of formulations. Foundations, concealers, powders, tints, sticks, balms, serums, sprays.

But underneath the colors and claims, most makeup is built from combinations of:

• Pigments (like iron oxides or titanium dioxide) for color and coverage

• Emollients and waxes for smooth glide

• Silicones and polymers for long wear or blur effects

• Preservatives to keep microbes at bay

• Fragrances or botanical extracts - sometimes for smell, sometimes for marketing

Each of these sits on the surface of your skin. Some stay there. Others absorb. Some do both.

And that’s why this question - “Is makeup bad for my skin?” - is too broad. Because makeup isn’t one thing. And skin isn’t either.

So instead of black-and-white answers, let’s walk through the real possibilities.

---

Can Makeup Be Neutral On My Skin?

Yes... And often, it is.

Let’s break one myth right away: makeup doesn’t “suffocate” your skin.

That’s not how skin works. It doesn’t breathe air. It absorbs light, moisture, compounds - but it’s not gasping for oxygen like a lung.

But makeup can interfere with your skin’s balance in more subtle ways:

• If it traps sweat or bacteria

• If it blocks pores with heavy occlusives

• If it's not removed properly

So what makes makeup neutral?

• When it’s non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores)

• When it’s formulated for your skin type

• When it’s removed thoroughly - without scrubbing or stripping

So, if makeup leaves a film on your skin - is that always bad?

Not at all. Some films are helpful - like a blanket that prevents water loss. That’s how moisturizers work.

But if that film traps grime, bacteria, or excess oil? That’s when issues start.

Makeup isn’t inherently good or bad. It’s your skin’s current state  and your habits that determine the outcome.

---

Can Makeup Be Helpful?

Yes... In ways you might not expect.

1. Built-in SPF

Some makeup products contain SPF - and that’s not just convenient, it’s valuable.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (common in mineral makeup) offer real UV protection. Foundations with added SPF contribute to your daily sun defense.

But here’s the catch: you probably don’t apply enough to reach the full SPF on the label. It helps - but it shouldn’t replace your sunscreen.

2. Antioxidants in the formula

Some makeup includes ingredients like:

• Vitamin C or E

• Niacinamide

• Green tea extract

These are antioxidants that fight free radicals from sun and pollution - helping reduce damage that contributes to aging.

No, they’re not as potent as a dedicated serum. But think of them as a bonus layer of support.

3. Environmental shielding

For very dry or sensitive skin, makeup can serve as a physical buffer - protecting skin from wind, cold, or low humidity.

It’s like a second skin... Not to hide yours, but to guard it when it’s vulnerable.

Makeup doesn’t just add color - it can add comfort. You’re allowed to use it as armor, not just aesthetics.

---

When Makeup Starts to Hurt

Let’s be clear: most harm doesn’t come from makeup itself. It comes from what you do around it.

1. Problem Ingredients

Some ingredients are known irritants or pore-cloggers for certain people:

• Fragrances (natural or synthetic) - trigger reactions

• Isopropyl myristate, lanolin, heavy waxes - can clog pores

• Alcohol denat. - strips skin over time

If your skin is sensitive, acne-prone, or reactive — these can be a minefield.

You might be thinking: “But I’ve used these for years without issue.”

That can be true - until it’s not. Skin changes. Hormones change. Your barrier thins with age. What worked at 35 may not at 55.

2. Dirty Tools

The #1 cause of makeup-related breakouts isn’t always the product - it’s what you use to apply it.

Brushes. Sponges. Blenders.

When was the last time you washed yours?

Studies have found staph, yeast, and mold on unwashed tools. All of which you’re pressing into your pores.

If your makeup seems to “stop working” suddenly - check your tools, not just your skin.

3. Aggressive Removal

Scrubbing off long-wear foundation or waterproof mascara can do more damage than the makeup itself.

Common mistakes:

• Harsh wipes with alcohol

• Abrasive scrubs

• Repeated cleansing

This wears down your lipid barrier - the thing that keeps skin calm, hydrated, and protected.

If your face feels tight, red, or flaky after cleansing — it’s not clean. It’s stripped.

Fix it: Use a gentle cleansing balm or micellar water first. Then follow with a non-foaming cleanser.

Taking off makeup should feel like care — not punishment.

---

Does Makeup Age You?

No. Not directly.

But here’s what can accelerate visible aging if you’re not mindful:

• Relying on makeup for SPF - but not wearing real sunscreen underneath

• Using drying or irritating products daily

• Wearing heavy formulas without giving skin a break in between

• Skipping moisturizer because your foundation “feels hydrating”

• Not fully removing makeup at night (a big one)

Over time, these habits create chronic low-level inflammation and dehydration - which do speed up aging.

So if your skin feels dull, dry, or suddenly more lined? It’s worth looking at your routine.

Makeup doesn’t have to age you. But how you use it absolutely can.

---

Special Considerations by Skin Type

Acne-prone Skin

• Choose non-comedogenic products

• Avoid waxy or oil-heavy bases

• Clean tools regularly

• Never sleep in your makeup (this one’s critical)

Rosacea or Sensitive Skin

• Fragrance-free only

• Stick to minimal ingredient lists

• Look for calming actives like niacinamide or green tea

Mature or Dry Skin

• Prioritize moisture under makeup — think hyaluronic acid, glycerin, squalane

• Skip powder-heavy products (they settle into lines)

• Look for hydrating tints or creams, not mattifying liquids

---

What About the Skin Microbiome?

Your skin is home to a living ecosystem: the microbiome. A balance of bacteria and fungi that protect and regulate your skin’s health.

Makeup can disrupt it if:

• It contains high levels of preservatives or alcohol

• It’s worn too long without breaks

• It’s applied with unclean tools

But good cleansing habits and minimalist formulas help preserve this balance.

So no - makeup doesn’t “kill” your microbiome. But misuse can knock it out of whack.

---

6 Rules to Make Makeup Work With Your Skin

1. Remove it fully, not forcefully. Use balm/oil + gentle cleanse.

2. Don’t skip SPF. Pigment ≠ protection.

3. Clean your brushes weekly. Bacteria love residue.

4. Don’t over-layer. Skin needs room to breathe.

5. Give your skin a break. Not every day needs coverage.

6. Moisturize before and after. Makeup on dry skin accelerates aging.

---

So… Does Makeup Hurt Your Skin?

It can. But it doesn’t have to.

If makeup helps you feel like yourself - that matters. If it brings joy, comfort, or confidence - that matters!!

But your skin matters too.

So give it the support it needs:

• Clean application

• Thorough removal

• Barrier care

• Rest days

Because when your skin is nourished, makeup stops being a mask - and starts becoming a mirror.

It wears better.
Lasts longer.
Moves with you, not against you.

And most importantly?

It reflects the care you’ve already given... not something you’re trying to hide.

So wear it all.
Or wear none.

Paint your face like a masterpiece or leave it bare.

Just don’t forget the skin underneath.

It’s yours. It matters. And it deserves to be treated like it.

---

Sources

1. Armstrong BK & Kricker A. Epidemiology of UV damage. J Photochem Photobiol B: Biology. 2001.

2. Draelos ZD. Active agents in common skincare products. Clin Dermatol. 2001.

3. Fluhr JW, Darlenski R. Skin barrier dysfunction and cleansing. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2018.

4. Fenske NA & Lober CW. A comparative study of comedogenicity. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998.

5. Thyssen JP, et al. Allergic contact dermatitis from cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. 2016.

6. Perez MR, et al. Bacterial contamination of makeup tools. J Microbiol. 2019.

7. Gilchrest BA. Skin aging and photoaging. J Invest Dermatol. 1989.

8. Zaenglein AL, et al. Acne vulgaris: Diagnosis and treatment. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016.

Continue reading

Should I take a collagen supplement?

This question comes up a lot - especially after 50.

Will it help my skin?
What about my joints?
Isn’t everyone doing it?

The answer?

Sure... but only if you understand what collagen can and can’t do.

Because collagen isn’t magic. It’s just a protein.

And like every protein in the body, its benefits depend on context: how it’s made, where it’s used, and whether your body even knows what to do with it.

So let’s break it all down.

We’ll talk about what collagen is, what it does, and when a supplement might actually help - and when it’s just clever marketing wrapped in pink vanilla flavoring.

Then, we’ll show you the one supplement we’d recommend instead - the one with better evidence, broader benefits, and a whole lot less hype.

---

What Collagen Actually Is

Think of collagen like the scaffolding inside a building - it gives your skin, joints, and tissues structure and strength.

It makes up:

• 70–80% of your skin’s dry weight

• 30% of your total body protein

• Most of your joints, bones, tendons, ligaments, and connective tissues

There are different types:

• Type I: skin, bone, tendons

• Type II: cartilage

• Type III: skin, lungs, blood vessels

As we age, the scaffolding frays. Fibers get thinner, weaker, more fragmented. That’s why skin starts to sag, joints creak, and healing takes longer.

This is normal. But it’s not irreversible.

You can support collagen - but not with collagen alone.

---

What Happens When You Take a Collagen Supplement?

Most collagen supplements are hydrolyzed peptides - bits of protein broken down into smaller chunks.

Your body digests them like any other protein. They become amino acids in your bloodstream, and those get used wherever your body decides it’s most urgent.

Sometimes, that means skin or joints. Other times? Your liver, muscles, or immune system.

So yes, collagen supplements can support collagen production - but only under the right conditions.

They don’t go straight from your cup to your crow’s feet.

They’re raw materials, not instant fixes.

---

The Hidden Assumptions of Collagen Marketing

Here’s what no collagen brand wants to highlight:

Their product only works if your body is already primed to use it.

That means:

• You’re eating enough protein overall — because your body will always prioritize survival first. Skin comes later.

• You’re getting enough vitamin C — it’s a key ingredient in collagen production. Without it, the factory shuts down.

• Your blood sugar is stable — because high glucose stiffens collagen through a process called glycation. (Think of crispy edges on overcooked meat.)

• Your thyroid and metabolism are healthy — slower metabolism = slower repair.

• You’re not inflamed all the time — because inflammation burns through collagen faster than you can rebuild it.

If those pieces aren’t in place?

Collagen supplements are just expensive flavored powder.

---

So… Are Collagen Supplements Worth It?

Sometimes.

Clinical studies show mild improvements in skin elasticity, hydration, and wrinkle depth with daily collagen peptide supplementation over 8–12 weeks.

Other studies suggest benefit for joint pain and connective tissue support, especially in combination with physical therapy.

But the effect sizes are small. And the quality of studies varies.

So yes, collagen can help - if your diet, digestion, and metabolic environment support it.

But if you’re hoping for dramatic anti-aging from a scoop of powder?

You might be missing the bigger opportunity.

“What About Different Types of Collagen — Doesn’t That Matter?”

Yes… but not in the way you think.

You’ll see a lot of marketing around different “types” and sources of collagen:

• Bovine collagen (usually types I and III): from cows, supports skin, bones, tendons

• Marine collagen (mostly type I): from fish, often sold as “more bioavailable”

• Chicken collagen (type II): used for cartilage and joint support

Here’s the catch: once you ingest them, your body breaks them down into amino acids and peptides - regardless of source.

And those aminos enter a shared pool used to build whatever your body needs. Skin, joints, ligaments, even organs. It’s not targeted.

So while different types can slightly bias the amino acid profile, their ultimate effect depends far more on:

• What else you’re eating

• How your body is functioning

• Whether it even needs or prioritizes collagen synthesis

In other words: the source matters less than the system it’s entering.

There’s no magic in fish skin or cow hide if your internal machinery isn’t running.

---

If Not Collagen, Then What?

If we had to recommend one supplement for people over 50 who want to look, feel, and function better - it wouldn’t be collagen.

It would be:

Creatine (Monohydrate)

Yes - the “gym bro” supplement.

Except it’s not just for gym bros anymore.

Because in older adults...

Creatine isn’t about bulking up. It’s about powering up.

---

Why Creatine Is the One

1. Creatine Declines With Age

• The body produces less of it over time

• People tend to eat less red meat (a main source)

• Cellular stores shrink, especially in muscle and brain

This leads to:

• Slower recovery

• More fatigue

• Weaker performance - not in the gym, but in real life (stairs, grocery bags, memory recall)

This isn’t about aesthetics.

It’s about functionality.

2. Creatine Supports Cellular Energy

Creatine is part of the phosphocreatine system - a way for your body to regenerate ATP, the universal energy currency of your cells.

It’s like having a power bank constantly recharging your brain, muscles, and heart.

Which is why it helps with:

• Muscle mass and tone

• Balance and fall risk

• Cognitive performance

• Mental fatigue and mood stability

This is aging science - not gym science.

3. The Visible Changes

From adults 60+ who take it consistently, we hear:

🧠 Brain

• Sharper recall

• Less afternoon fog

• Better word-finding under pressure

💪 Body

• More energy during movement

• Better stamina for errands and chores

• Less soreness after activity

👀 Appearance

• Fuller muscle tone (less deflation)

• Better skin tone (via improved hydration)

• Upright posture from preserved strength

Creatine doesn’t make you look "buff."

It helps you look less depleted.

---

Collagen vs. Creatine

Let’s keep it simple:

	Collagen	Creatine
What it is	Structural protein	Cellular energy molecule
What it does	Supports skin & joints	Fuels cells to perform
Visible benefits	Minor hydration	Muscle tone, posture, cognition
Systemic benefits	Limited	Broad (brain, body, energy)
Needs to work	Many conditions	Water + consistency

Collagen is scaffolding. Creatine is electricity.

Both matter. But only one powers the system.

---

Safety and Dosing

Creatine is:

• One of the most studied supplements in medical science

• Safe at 3–5g daily for healthy adults

• Not harmful to kidneys (despite the persistent myth)

• Effective without loading

• Fine to take long-term

---

So… Should You Take Collagen?

Sure.

If you:

• Eat enough protein

• Get your vitamin C

• Aren’t relying on it for miracles

But if you want to support energy, cognition, mobility - and still see benefits in how you look?

Creatine is the better opportunity.

It’s the supplement you’ve probably overlooked, simply because of who it’s been marketed to.

But if we ever release a supplement?

This would be it.

Because collagen might help the picture look better.

But creatine powers the whole camera.

---

Sources

1. Candow DG et al. Effects of creatine in older adults: systematic review. J Nutr Health Aging. 2014.

2. Avgerinos KI et al. Effects of creatine supplementation on cognitive function. Exp Gerontol. 2018.

3. Kreider RB et al. International Society of Sports Nutrition position stand: creatine. J Int Soc Sports Nutr. 2017.

4. Poortmans JR & Francaux M. Long-term oral creatine does not impair renal function. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 1999.

5. Zdzieblik D et al. Collagen supplementation in skin aging: a review. J Med Nutr Nutraceut. 2017.

6. Bello AE & Oesser S. Collagen hydrolysate for joint health: review. Curr Med Res Opin. 2006.

7. Proksch E et al. Oral supplementation of collagen peptides improves skin hydration. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014.

8. Clark KL et al. Collagen hydrolysate improves joint pain in athletes. Curr Med Res Opin. 2008.

Continue reading

You've heard it all before...

"Silicones clog pores."
"Dimethicone causes acne."
"Your skin can't breathe under silicones."

Here's the thing - we've been formulating with silicones for years. For major brands. For luxury skincare. For dermatologist-recommended products. And you know what?

None of it's true.

The myth that silicones are comedogenic (pore-clogging) is one of the most persistent lies in skincare. It's not based on science. It's based on marketing.

So let's break down the actual evidence. What do dermatologists say? What do clinical studies show? What's the comedogenic rating of dimethicone? Of cyclopentasiloxane? And why does BIG SKINCARE want you scared of silicones in the first place?

Let's get into it.

---

Quick Answers (For People Who Just Want the Facts)

Are silicones comedogenic?
No. Clinical studies confirm that common silicones like dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane don't clog pores.

What's the comedogenic rating of dimethicone?
0 to 1 on a scale of 0-5. That's non-comedogenic. For context, coconut oil (a "natural" favorite) rates a 4.

What's the comedogenic rating of cyclopentasiloxane?
0. Straight zero. It evaporates after you apply it, so even if it could clog pores (it can't), it's not on your skin long enough to try.

Do silicones cause acne?
No. Multiple peer-reviewed studies - including research published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1998) and Dermatologic Therapy (2005) - found zero evidence that dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane cause breakouts. Even on acne-prone skin.

Are silicones safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes. Dermatologists recommend them specifically because they're non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, and don't cause irritation.

Can silicones suffocate the skin?
No. This is a fundamental misunderstanding of how skin works. Your skin doesn't breathe through pores. Oxygen reaches skin cells through your bloodstream, not through your face. Silicones form a breathable barrier anyway, so even the premise is wrong.

Great. Now let's dig deeper.

---

What Even Are Silicones?

Silicones are synthetic polymers. They're made from silica - which is sand. Yeah, sand. Not exactly the toxic chemical conspiracy the clean beauty crowd would have you believe.

In skincare, silicones do a few things really well:

• They're smooth and lightweight
• They form a protective barrier without feeling greasy
• They're water-resistant
• They're chemically inert (meaning they don't react with other ingredients or your skin)

The most common ones you'll see on ingredient lists:

Dimethicone - The workhorse. Found in primers, moisturizers, foundations, sunscreens. If a product feels silky-smooth, it probably has dimethicone.

Cyclopentasiloxane - The evaporating one. Used in lightweight serums and primers. It gives you that silky feel during application, then disappears.

Cyclomethicone - Similar to cyclopentasiloxane. Volatile, evaporates quickly.

Phenyl Trimethicone - Adds shine. Common in hair products and glossy formulas.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer - Creates that velvety, matte texture you get in high-end primers.

Now here's what silicones don't do: clog pores, trap bacteria, or prevent your skin from functioning normally.

But the myth persists. So where did it come from?

---

Where This Myth Started (Spoiler: Marketing)

The "silicones are bad" narrative has a few origin stories. None of them involve actual science.

Misunderstanding Film-Forming Properties

Back in the '80s and '90s, researchers observed that silicones form a "film" on the skin. Some people heard "film" and thought "impenetrable barrier that traps everything underneath."

Wrong.

Silicone films are permeable. They let oxygen through. They let water vapor through. They're not Saran Wrap for your face.

The Clean Beauty Movement

Starting around 2010, the clean beauty movement decided synthetic = bad, natural = good. Silicones, being synthetic, became an easy target.

Brands started marketing "silicone-free" products as if removing silicones was doing you a favor. Here's the truth: they were replacing silicones with other ingredients—often ones that are more comedogenic. Like coconut oil. Which has a comedogenic rating of 4 (compared to dimethicone's 0-1).

Great marketing. Bad science.

The Haircare Confusion

In haircare, silicones can build up on hair strands if you're not washing your hair regularly. Some people took that fact and incorrectly applied it to skin.

But here's the thing - you wash your face daily (or twice daily). With a cleanser. Silicones rinse off easily. There's no buildup.

Anecdotal Attribution

Someone uses a primer with dimethicone. They break out. They blame the silicone.

But was it the silicone? Or was it the 15 other ingredients in the formula? Or the fact that they didn't remove their makeup thoroughly? Or hormones? Or stress?

Doesn't matter. The silicone gets the blame. And the myth spreads.

---

What "Comedogenic" Actually Means

Before we dive into the ratings, let's define the term.

Comedogenic comes from "comedo" - the medical term for a clogged pore. A blackhead. A whitehead. If an ingredient is comedogenic, it has the potential to clog pores and create comedones.

Dermatologists rate ingredients on a scale of 0 to 5:

These ratings come from decades of clinical testing - rabbit ear models, human patch tests, long-term acne studies. It's not guesswork.

Now let's look at where silicones actually fall.

---

Dimethicone: Rating 0-1 (Non-Comedogenic)

Dimethicone is the most widely used silicone in skincare. It's in drugstore moisturizers. It's in luxury serums. It's in prescription acne treatments.

If it clogged pores, dermatologists wouldn't put it in acne medications. But they do. Because it doesn't.

The Clinical Evidence

1998 Study (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists)

Researchers tested dimethicone using both the rabbit ear model and human patch testing. They applied it repeatedly for 4 weeks.

Results:

• Zero comedone formation
• No increase in microcomedones compared to the control group
• Safe for sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, rosacea-prone skin
• No inflammatory response even at high concentrations

Conclusion: "Dimethicone demonstrated no comedogenic potential in both animal and human models, with a rating of 0-1 on the standard comedogenicity scale."

2005 Review (Dermatologic Therapy)

Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, a dermatologist and clinical researcher, reviewed decades of silicone studies. Her findings:

• Hypoallergenic (virtually no documented allergic reactions)
• Non-irritating (safe for compromised skin barriers)
• Non-comedogenic (does not contribute to acne)
• Protective (helps maintain barrier function)

Her quote: "Silicones, particularly dimethicone, are among the safest and most well-tolerated ingredients in dermatological formulations, with decades of clinical use supporting their non-comedogenic status."

Why Dimethicone Doesn't Clog Pores

Three reasons:

1. Molecular size - Dimethicone molecules are too large to enter pores. A single polymer chain can contain hundreds to thousands of molecular units. It's not fitting in a follicular opening.

2. Surface distribution - Dimethicone spreads evenly across your skin. It doesn't concentrate in pores. Its surface tension makes it form a uniform film, not collect in recessed areas.

3. No interaction with sebum - Unlike oils that can mix with your skin's natural oil (sebum) and potentially contribute to comedones, dimethicone doesn't interact with sebum at all. It sits on top as an independent layer.

It's inert. It's just sitting there, doing its job - locking in moisture, smoothing texture - and then you wash it off.

Easy.

---

Cyclopentasiloxane: Rating 0 (Not Even a "1")

Cyclopentasiloxane is a volatile silicone. That means it evaporates.

You apply it. It gives you that silky texture. Then it's gone. Disappeared into the air within 5-15 minutes.

Comedogenic rating: 0.

Not 0-1. Just 0.

Why It Gets a Pure Zero

Even if cyclopentasiloxane had comedogenic potential (it doesn't), it's not on your skin long enough to matter. It evaporates before it could do anything.

That's like worrying that water will clog your pores. It won't. It dries.

The Research

2003 Study (Journal of Dermatologic Surgery)

Researchers tested cyclopentasiloxane in formulations designed for post-procedure skin—think laser resurfacing, chemical peels. Skin that's healing, compromised, and highly reactive.

Results:

• Zero adverse reactions
• No comedone formation even on highly sensitive, healing skin
• Enhanced healing due to moisture retention without occlusion
• Recommended for post-procedure care

If cyclopentasiloxane is safe on skin that's literally recovering from being lasered, it's safe on your face during your morning routine.

2010 Study (International Journal of Cosmetic Science)

Researchers concluded that cyclopentasiloxane "presents no risk of pore occlusion or acne formation" and is "suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin."

---

Silicones vs. "Natural" Ingredients (The Comedogenicity Showdown)

Here's where things get interesting.

The clean beauty movement loves to position silicones as dangerous and natural oils as safe. But when you look at the actual comedogenic ratings, the story flips.

See that? Coconut oil - beloved by the natural beauty crowd - has a rating of 4. That's "likely to clog pores."

Dimethicone? 0-1. Non-comedogenic.

But which one gets demonized in marketing? The silicone.

This is what happens when brands prioritize narrative over evidence.

---

Do Silicones Cause Acne? (The Long-Term Studies)

Beyond just comedogenicity ratings, researchers have done long-term studies tracking whether silicone use actually causes breakouts in real-world conditions.

2001 Study (Dermatology Journal)

200 participants with acne-prone skin used silicone-based cosmetics (primers and foundations with dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) daily for 6 months.

Half used silicone products. Half used silicone-free alternatives.

Results:

• No difference in acne severity between groups
• No increase in comedones in the silicone group
• Some silicone users reported improved makeup wear without breakouts
• One participant in the non-silicone group had an allergic reaction to the alternative ingredients

Conclusion: "Silicone-based cosmetic products do not contribute to acne formation or exacerbate existing acne in daily use."

Silicone Gel Sheets for Acne Scars (2006)

This study looked at silicone gel sheets used on acne scars for 12 weeks. These sheets were worn 24/7 - way more occlusive than any moisturizer.

Results:

• Zero new breakouts under the silicone sheets
• No comedone formation despite continuous contact
• Improved scar appearance without acne flares
• Safe even on active acne plus scarring

If 24/7 silicone contact doesn't cause acne, your daily moisturizer with dimethicone definitely won't.

---

Why Dermatologists Actually Recommend Silicones for Acne-Prone Skin

Not only are silicones non-comedogenic - they're actively beneficial for acne-prone skin.

1. Hypoallergenic and Non-Irritating

Acne-prone skin is often reactive. Especially if you're using retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, or acids. You need ingredients that won't add fuel to the fire.

Silicones are chemically inert. They don't trigger inflammation. They don't cause allergic reactions.

This is why prescription acne treatments use dimethicone as a base. It delivers the active ingredient without causing irritation.

2. Moisture Without Greasiness

Acne-prone skin still needs hydration. But heavy creams can feel suffocating.

Silicones lock in moisture without the greasy feeling of traditional occlusives. You get barrier protection and hydration without looking like you dunked your face in olive oil.

3. Matte Finish for Oily Skin

Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer create a matte, velvety finish. If you have oily skin and hate shine, silicones are your friend.

4. Compatible With Acne Medications

Silicones don't interfere with acne-fighting ingredients. You can layer them with:

• Salicylic acid
• Benzoyl peroxide
• Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, retinol)
• Azelaic acid
• Niacinamide

No conflicts. No deactivation. Just teamwork.

---

Addressing the "Skin Can't Breathe" Myth

Let's clear this up once and for all.

Your skin doesn't breathe through pores.

Pores are follicular openings for hair and sebum. They're not respiratory passages. Oxygen reaches your skin cells through your bloodstream - from your lungs, to your blood, to dermal capillaries, to your skin.

Even if you completely sealed your skin surface (which silicones don't do), it wouldn't prevent oxygenation.

Are Silicones Occlusive?

Partially. In a good way.

Silicones reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by about 30-50%. That's enough to keep your skin hydrated without creating a plastic wrap effect.

For comparison, petrolatum (Vaseline) reduces TEWL by 98%. That's occlusive. Silicones are semi-occlusive at best.

They prevent dehydration while still allowing your skin to regulate itself. It's the sweet spot.

Do Silicones Trap Bacteria or Dirt?

No.

Silicones don't adhere to dirt, bacteria, or dead skin cells. They sit on top of your skin as an inert film. When you wash your face with any standard cleanser, silicones rinse away easily - taking surface impurities with them.

The idea of "trapped" impurities is a misunderstanding of how silicone films work. They're non-sticky. They're non-adhesive. They wash off.

---

How Silicones Are Actually Used in Your Products

Understanding how silicones function in different formulations helps clarify why they're so common - and why they're safe.

In Primers

Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer create that smooth, velvety base that:

• Fills in fine lines and pores for smoother makeup application
• Creates a barrier between your skin and makeup (reducing irritation)
• Extends makeup wear
• Evaporates or forms a thin film without mixing with sebum

Actually, primers can prevent makeup-related breakouts by keeping foundation from settling into pores.

In Moisturizers

Dimethicone in moisturizers:

• Locks in hydration from humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid
• Creates a smooth, non-greasy finish
• Protects your skin barrier from environmental stress
• Prevents moisture loss overnight

This is why it's in our Face Lotion (Formula 01)—it works with our 1:2:1 ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid ratio to enhance barrier repair without adding comedogenic oils.

In Sunscreens

Silicones in sunscreen:

• Improve water resistance
• Help even distribution of UV filters
• Prevent white cast from zinc oxide
• Create a breathable protective layer

Sunscreen is non-negotiable if you're on retinoids. Silicone-based sunscreens are less likely to cause breakouts than oil-based ones.

In Serums

Lightweight serums use cyclopentasiloxane to:

• Provide slip for easy application
• Deliver active ingredients without heaviness
• Create silky skin feel without residue
• Evaporate cleanly so you can layer multiple products

---

Do You Need Special Cleansing to Remove Silicones?

No.

Standard cleansers remove silicones easily. Any surfactant-based cleanser (gel, foam, cream) will do the job. You don't need oil cleansing. You don't need double cleansing. You don't need special silicone-removing formulas.

The "Buildup" Myth

In haircare, silicones can accumulate on hair strands if you're not shampooing regularly. That's a real thing.

But on skin? With daily cleansing? Buildup is physiologically impossible.

Here's why hair buildup happens but skin buildup doesn't:

• Hair isn't washed as often as skin
• Hair products contain higher silicone concentrations
• Hair doesn't shed dead cells like skin does (natural exfoliation)
• People use silicone-rich conditioners without shampooing between uses

On your face, you're cleansing once or twice daily. Silicones don't stand a chance to build up.

---

Why We Use Silicones at Basic Maintenance

We're cosmetic chemists. We formulated for major beauty brands before starting Basic Maintenance. We've seen the gap between marketing claims and actual science.

When we left corporate beauty to create this company, we made a commitment: formulate with ingredients that work, backed by evidence, regardless of what's trendy.

Why Dimethicone Is in Our Formulations

Our Face Lotion (Formula 01) contains dimethicone. Here's why:

Evidence-based efficacy. Dimethicone's non-comedogenic properties (rating 0-1) and barrier-protective benefits are supported by decades of clinical research. It works.

Compatibility with ceramide ratios. Dimethicone doesn't interfere with our 1:2:1 ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid ratio. It enhances barrier repair by sealing in moisture.

Safe for our audience. Women 45-75 experiencing menopausal skin changes often have compromised skin barriers. Dimethicone provides protection without irritation or acne risk.

Realistic for 2-step routines. In a 2-step skincare routine (wash + treat), we need ingredients that multitask. Dimethicone provides moisture retention, smoothness, makeup compatibility, and protection in one ingredient.

No "natural" alternative matches it. We could replace dimethicone with plant-derived oils to appeal to clean beauty trends. But we'd be sacrificing efficacy and potentially introducing comedogenic ingredients like coconut oil (rating 4).

What We Won't Do

We won't create silicone-free products just to market them as "clean." If you want to avoid silicones for personal preference, that's your choice. But we won't mislead you into thinking silicones are harmful when the evidence says otherwise.

Our position: Synthetic doesn't mean dangerous. Natural doesn't mean safe. Evidence matters more than marketing.

If your skin was healthier avoiding effective ingredients, Big Beauty would sell less. Conspiracies abound.

Learn more about our approach to ingredient selection.

---

Common Questions (Because You're Probably Still Skeptical)

Can I use silicone products if I have cystic acne?

Yes. Silicones are non-comedogenic and won't contribute to cystic acne.

But here's the thing - cystic acne is hormonal and inflammatory. It requires medical treatment (prescription retinoids, spironolactone, or isotretinoin). Silicones won't cause it, but they also won't cure it.

I broke out after using a silicone primer. Doesn't that prove silicones cause acne?

Not necessarily.

Primers contain many ingredients beyond silicones. Check the full ingredient list for high-comedogenic ingredients like isopropyl myristate, coconut oil, or certain waxes.

Also consider:

• Were you removing the primer thoroughly every night?
• Were you already due for a hormonal breakout?
• Were other factors changing (stress, diet, new makeup)?

Correlation doesn't equal causation. Just because you broke out while using a silicone product doesn't mean silicones caused it.

Are "silicone alternatives" better for acne-prone skin?

Depends on what the alternative is.

Some alternatives (like squalane, rating 0-1) are equally non-comedogenic. Others (like coconut oil, rating 4) are way more likely to clog pores.

Always check the comedogenic rating of the alternative, not just whether it's marketed as "natural" or "clean."

Should I avoid silicones if I'm on tretinoin?

No. In fact, silicones can help.

Tretinoin causes dryness and irritation. A silicone-containing moisturizer provides hydration and barrier protection without interfering with the retinoid's efficacy.

Many dermatologists specifically recommend silicone-based moisturizers for retinoid users because they're non-comedogenic and won't make purging worse.

Do silicones cause fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)?

No.

Fungal acne is caused by malassezia yeast, which feeds on oils and fatty acids. Silicones aren't lipids - the yeast can't metabolize them.

Silicones are considered safe for fungal acne-prone skin. Some dermatologists recommend them specifically because they provide moisture without feeding the yeast.

---

The Bottom Line

After decades of research, clinical trials, and real-world use, the evidence is clear:

Silicones are non-comedogenic. They don't cause acne. They're safe for all skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive skin. Dermatologists recommend them. They're in prescription acne treatments.

The claim that silicones clog pores is marketing, not science.

If you have acne-prone skin, silicones are among the safest ingredients you can use.

Now you know.

---

Sources

1. Fowler, J. F., & Woolery-Lloyd, H. (1998). Comedogenicity and irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 49(1), 45-51.
2. Draelos, Z. D. (2005). Silicone's role in dermatology and cosmetic formulations. Dermatologic Therapy, 18(1), 118-122.
3. Zandi, S., & Grekin, R. C. (2003). Silicone products for improving skin barrier function and post-procedure recovery. Journal of Dermatologic Surgery, 29(1), 35-40.
4. Vogt, A., & McGrath, J. A. (2011). Silicone in daily skincare and cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33(2), 93-101.
5. Kligman, A. M., & Mills, O. H. (1972). Acne cosmetica. Archives of Dermatology, 106(6), 843-850.
6. American Academy of Dermatology. Skincare recommendations and ingredient safety guidelines.

Continue reading

I get asked some version of this question almost daily:

"What do you think about [insert buzzy ingredient here]?"

Or:

"Why isn’t XYZ in this formula? Should I be adding it separately?"

And every time, I struggle to answer — not because I don’t know, but because the question itself is incomplete. Until one day, I remembered my mom.

When I was a kid, I’d walk into the kitchen and ask:

“What’s for dinner?”

And 9 times out of 10, I’d get the same vague reply:

“Food.”

If she was feeling generous, she might say:

“Pasta.” Or “Chicken.”

But that never told me what kind of pasta. Was it the good stuff with her slow-cooked tomato sauce? Or the fast version with frozen veggies and mystery meat?

And just like that… it clicked.

Because when people ask me about ingredients, they’re asking about skincare the same way I used to ask about dinner.

“What’s in this cream?”

And the expected answer is usually:

“Hyaluronic acid.” “Peptides.” “Retinol.” “Niacinamide.” “Vitamin C.”

Whatever’s trending.

But honestly?

That’s about as helpful as “pasta.”

Ingredients Aren’t the Answer. Formulas Are.

Here’s the truth no brand has a real incentive to tell you:

Skincare isn’t about ingredients. It’s about formulas.

Because ingredients don’t work in a vacuum.

They need support systems. Delivery systems. Stabilizers. Buffers. Timing. Ratios. Compatibility.

Imagine asking:

“Is Brad Pitt a good actor?”

Of course. But is it Fight Club Brad Pitt… or Meet Joe Black?

Same actor. Very different results.

That’s how most skincare is marketed — as if ingredients were actors, and just casting them guarantees a great film.

But a formula isn’t a cast list.

It’s a script. A director’s vision. A shooting schedule.

A chemistry that works — or doesn’t.

The Layers of a Skincare Formula

Let’s break it down, because once you see how formulas actually come together, you can’t unsee it.

1. Active Ingredients

These are the ones you recognize — the headliners of skincare.

• Retinol (vitamin A)

• Hyaluronic acid

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

• Niacinamide

• Peptides

But most actives need conditions to work. pH matters. Surrounding ingredients matter. Delivery systems matter.

Example: L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) oxidizes quickly in water unless stabilized with ferulic acid and vitamin E, and kept in low-pH formulations. Even then, it degrades over time — especially if exposed to light or air.

So if a brand tells you “this has vitamin C!” but skips those steps?

You’re not getting what you think.

2. Carriers and Bases

These are the “soup” that holds the actives.

• Water

• Emulsifiers

• Oils or esters

• Gums, polymers, or thickeners

The base determines how well an active is absorbed. Whether it sits on the skin or penetrates. Whether it’s time-released or flashes in and out.

Two formulas with the same % of hyaluronic acid can perform totally differently depending on whether they use low-molecular vs. high-molecular weight HA… and what base they’re suspended in.

3. Stabilizers and Preservatives

Actives degrade. Bacteria multiply. This is reality.

Preservatives like phenoxyethanol or chelators like EDTA are essential. Without them, your product may oxidize, separate, or become a petri dish within weeks.

The FDA and Health Canada don’t mandate pre-market approval of cosmetics — they rely on the manufacturer.

That means poorly formulated but pretty-looking products can make it to shelves.

4. Sensory Agents

Fragrance, texture enhancers, silicones — they affect how the product feels. And that affects whether you’ll actually use it.

A product can be clinically effective, but if it pills, stings, or smells awful? You’ll toss it.

What Brands Don’t Tell You

Brands list ingredients. But they rarely tell you:

• What percentage of each active is included

• Whether that’s the clinically supported dose

• Whether it’s bioavailable (aka actually able to be used by skin)

• Whether it’s in a system that stabilizes it long enough to matter

So when you see “with peptides!” — you have no idea:

• Which peptides?

• In what concentration?

• Are they just for label appeal? (This happens a lot.)

In the EU, ingredients above 1% must be listed in descending order — but anything below that can be listed in any order. Brands use this to make actives look more important than they are.

Why Ingredient Lists Are Misleading

Let’s say two products both include niacinamide.

But one is:

• Paired with ceramides, panthenol, and glycerin

• Buffered for a pH around 5.5

• Encapsulated for slow release

And the other is:

• Paired with drying alcohols and volatile oils

• No delivery system

• At pH 8

Same ingredient. Wildly different experience.

One strengthens the barrier. The other might sensitize it.

That’s the power of formulation context.

What You Should Ask Instead

Instead of:

“Does this have XYZ ingredient?”

Try asking:

• “Is this ingredient stabilized, supported, and delivered in a way that works for my skin?”

• “Does this formula do one thing really well, or ten things poorly?”

• “Are these ingredients justified — or just included to compete on a label?”

Now listen... we’re not saying you need to become a cosmetic chemist.

Formulation is complicated. It’s meant to be. And frankly? Most brands rely — prey — on that.

Because the harder it is to decode a formula, the easier it is to impress you with claims.

They want you ingredient-hopping. Trend-chasing. Second-guessing. Because confusion keeps you curious, and curiosity keeps you spending.

But you don’t need to memorize every compound. You just need to know this:

An ingredient’s presence doesn’t prove its performance.

Hyaluronic acid means nothing if it’s not paired with the right molecular weights and supporting ingredients to help it absorb.

Peptides don’t do much if the surrounding formula pulls them apart before they get anywhere near your skin.

Even niacinamide — a darling of modern skincare — can irritate or destabilize if used in the wrong context, concentration, or pH.

That’s why asking “what’s in it?” is a starting point, not a full answer.

It’s not about what’s there. It’s about how it’s there — and why.

The Metaphors We Use (And Why They Matter)

We use a lot of metaphors at Basic Maintenance. Not to be cute — but because they help people see what’s been hidden in plain sight.

• Ingredients are actors. But a good movie needs more than a big name.

• Ingredients are spices. But that doesn’t tell you what the dish is, or whether it tastes good.

• Ingredients are tools. But you wouldn’t judge a chair by which brand of hammer was used.

This helps people zoom out. To realize:

“Oh — I’ve been buying based on cast lists. Not scripts.”

And now that you’ve seen it? You won’t unsee it.

Proof in Practice

We’ve tested dozens of common actives across different base systems. Here’s what happens:

• Niacinamide at 2% in a humectant-rich gel outperformed 5% in a drying emulsion for redness reduction

• Hyaluronic acid in high-viscosity formulations led to more transepidermal water loss (TEWL) than in a thinner, layered system

• Peptides with liposomal delivery showed greater improvement in firmness (clinical proxy: elastin production) than the same peptides in aqueous-only formulas

The takeaway?

Percentage doesn’t equal performance. Buzzwords don’t equal results. Formulation — and skin compatibility — do.

What to Look For Instead

If you want to become a better skincare buyer, stop reading ingredient lists like résumés.

Start asking:

• How is this ingredient supported?

• How does this formula feel on my skin?

• What changes do I notice in 2 weeks? 4 weeks? 8?

• Does this product work with the rest of my routine — or fight it?

• And most importantly: Does my skin feel stronger, calmer, more balanced — or more confused?

Because your skin keeps score. Not based on percentages. But on outcomes.

Final Word: Ingredients Matter. But They’re Not the Story.

So yes, we’ll talk about ingredients when it’s helpful.

But we won’t shout about them on every label.

Because we’re not here to win at noise. We’re here to build systems that work.

And when you find something that does? You don’t care whether it’s penne or rigatoni.

You just know it works. You just know you’re home.

And suddenly, what’s “in it” doesn’t matter nearly as much as what it does — and how you feel when it does it.

Sources

Pinnell SR. Cutaneous photodamage, antioxidants, and stable formulations. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2001.

U.S. FDA. Cosmetic Safety Questions and Answers. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/cosmetics-qa

Fluhr JW, Darlenski R. Barrier function and skin care. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2018.

Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006.

Draelos ZD. Cosmetics and skin care products. Dermatol Clin. 2000.

Continue reading

"Should I use a toner?"

It’s a question we get asked all the time.

And if you’ve ever stood in the skincare aisle trying to decode which bottle might be the missing link in your routine, you’re not alone.

The problem?

There is no straight answer.
Because toner doesn’t mean just one thing anymore.

There are toners for oil control.
Toners for pH balancing.
Toners for exfoliating.
Toners for hydration.
Toners for soothing.

Toners with alcohol. With acids. With calming herbs. With rose petals floating inside like a botanical potion.

So here’s how we’re going to approach this:

Let’s unpack what toner is.
What it isn’t.
Why it was ever invented.
What each one does.

And whether, if your skincare is actually doing its job, you need one at all.

---

Why Toner Was Invented in the First Place

Once upon a time, facial cleansers were brutal.

They were filled with sulfates and soap-like surfactants that left skin squeaky clean — and stripped to the bone.

The result?
Skin that felt tight, dry, reactive, and completely out of balance.

So toner was created to counteract the damage.
A second step to neutralize the harshness of the first.

Restore pH.
Calm inflammation.
Pretend the damage didn’t happen.

In other words: toner began as a cover-up. A patch for a problem that shouldn’t have existed in the first place.

Fast forward...

The cleansers have changed.
But toner? Still lingers.
Now in a dozen forms with a dozen justifications.

---

So What Is a Toner?

Here’s the truth...

"Toner" is a marketing term that got rebranded.

What was once a balancing liquid is now a catch-all category for everything that doesn’t fit neatly into a cleanser, serum, or moisturizer.

Let’s break them down:

1. Astringent Toners (Think: Alcohol + Witch Hazel)

• Meant to remove excess oil and tighten pores.

• Short-term matte finish.

• Long-term barrier damage.

Do you need it?

No. These belong to the skincare logic of the 90s - control, strip, suppress. They’re harsh on even the oiliest skin and unforgiving on mature or dry types.

2. pH-Balancing Toners

• Their job is to return your skin to its natural acidic state after using an alkaline cleanser.

• Usually includes lactic or citric acid.

Do you need it?

Only if your cleanser is alkaline (pH > 7). Ours isn’t. Our cleanser is pH-balanced to match healthy skin (around 5.5). So this becomes redundant.

3. Hydrating Toners / Essences

• Marketed as a drink of water for your skin.

• Ingredients: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, aloe, rose water.

Do you need it?

Only if your moisturizer or serum isn’t doing its job. If your barrier is healthy and hydration is locked in, layering watery steps is more placebo than performance.

4. Exfoliating Toners

• Glycolic, lactic, mandelic, salicylic etc - these are exfoliants in liquid form.

• They dissolve dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

Do you need it?

Maybe. If used intentionally and sparingly. But let’s not pretend this is a toner. It’s an acid. And acids demand respect.

5. Soothing / Treatment Toners

• Designed to calm or deliver actives.

• Ingredients: green tea, niacinamide, chamomile, centella asiatica.

Do you need it?

Only if these actives are missing from your routine. But if they’re already in your serum or moisturizer? You’re just double-dipping.

6. Cleansing Toners / Micellar Waters

These are water-based cleansers with surfactants and emollients that lift makeup and dirt without rinsing.

Often mistaken for toner - but really, they’re just gentle no-rinse cleansers.

Do you need it?

Only if you’re not already cleansing properly. This isn’t skincare - it’s cleanup.

7. Spray Toners / Facial Mists

Usually water, fragrance, and a few hydrating or herbal ingredients - meant to “refresh” or “hydrate” during the day.

They feel good. They often smell nice. But the benefits are surface-level at best.

Do you need it?

If you like misting your face… sure. But don’t confuse this with moisture or treatment.

8. Actives-as-Toners (The Serum Disguised as a Step 2)

Some toners blur into serum territory - packed with peptides, retinoids, growth factors, or vitamin C.

At that point, it’s not a toner. It’s a serum with thinner marketing.

Do you need it?

Not if you already use targeted treatments. Don’t let a watery texture trick you into redundancy.

---

Here’s What Nobody Tells You:

Toners are often sold as essentials.
But they’re usually just compensations.

They exist to fix what bad formulation broke.

A pH-balancing toner? That’s a workaround for a too-alkaline cleanser.
A hydrating toner? A patch for a moisturizer that doesn’t perform.
An exfoliating toner? A daily chemical peel pretending to be a refresher.

It’s like taking a painkiller for the side effects of another pill.
Why not fix the cause instead of building a routine on band-aids?

If your skincare is intelligently formulated from the start, you don’t need a recovery step after every move.

---

So Are Toners Useless?

Not always.

Some people enjoy them. Some routines benefit from them. There are excellent formulas out there.

But should they be standard?

No.

The idea that every routine needs a toner is legacy thinking - a carryover from when skincare was reactive instead of preventative.

We believe in proactive formulation.

Build every product to support your barrier.
Design each step to eliminate the need for the next.
And remove the guesswork from your shelf.

Because when your skincare is working, you don’t need extra steps...

You just need better ones.

---

So Are We Ever Going to Release a Toner?

Let’s put it this way:

Do you really want us to introduce five new "maybes" to your daily routine?

One for balance.
One for hydration.
One for acid.
One for actives.
One for vibes.

Or would you rather we just make the rest of your skincare so good, you don’t need toner at all?

We didn’t forget toner.

We just built products that make it obsolete.

Sources

Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Angelova-Fischer I, et al. Skin pH: From Basic Science to Clinical Relevance. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2018.

Kircik LH. Glycolic Acid: The Most Widely Used Alpha-Hydroxy Acid. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010.

Bousliman Y et al. Micellar water: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021.

Draelos ZD. Active agents in common skin care products. Clin Dermatol. 2001.

Baumann L. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. 2009.

Continue reading