Purple Shampoo: What Works, What’s Hype, and When to Use It

You notice it in photos first.

Your hair was cool, ash, icy even...
But now it looks off.

A little warmer. A little yellow. A little “meh.”

So you reach for the fix everyone suggests: Purple shampoo.

But does it actually work?

Or are we all just caught in a violet-hued loop of wash, hope, repeat?

Let’s untangle it.

Because while purple shampoo can help—most people use it wrong, expect too much from it, or don’t understand what it’s actually for.

Why Hair Turns Brassy In The First Place

Brassiness isn’t random. It’s chemistry.

Hair turns yellow, orange, or red-hued when:

• The underlying pigments from your natural hair start to show through (especially after lightening)

• Mineral buildup from water (iron, copper, calcium) distorts color

• Oxidation (sun, heat, air pollution) breaks down cool-toned dyes or bleaches

• Or your toner fades—because toners are temporary and always will be

So the warmth you're seeing? It's what’s left behind when the ash fades.

Enter: Purple Shampoo

Purple sits opposite yellow on the color wheel.

So when a violet pigment sits on top of yellow tones, it neutralizes them—visually, at least.

That’s why purple shampoo is often pitched as a magic fix.
But here’s the reality:

• It only works on the outer hair shaft

• It’s not permanent

• It doesn’t “lighten” or “brighten”—it masks

And overuse? Can do more harm than good.

The Truth About Purple Shampoo Ingredients

Most purple shampoos include:

• Basic surfactants (for cleansing)

• Temporary violet dyes (usually Basic Violet 2 or Acid Violet 43)

• Conditioners or silicones (to offset dryness)

And many are incredibly drying. Why?

Because:

1. The pigment molecules don’t stick well to oily or coated hair—so formulas are often made harsher to “prep” the strand.

2. People tend to overuse them, hoping more purple = better tone correction.

End result? Hair that’s toned... but fried.

Who Should Actually Use Purple Shampoo?

It’s helpful for:

✅ Blonde, silver, or grey hair
✅ Hair that was once cool-toned but has turned warm
✅ People with hard water exposure or UV fade

But only if:

• Your hair is clean enough for pigments to grab

• You’re not relying on it to “fix” damaged color

• You use it sparingly, not daily

Who Should Be Cautious?

Purple shampoo isn’t for everyone.

⚠️ If your hair is very dry, brittle, or porous—it can stain or worsen the texture.
⚠️ If your hair isn’t brassy—it can create a dull, violet cast instead of brightness.
⚠️ If you have natural grey or white hair—it may turn lavender.

More pigment isn’t better. It’s just... more purple.

How To Use Purple Shampoo (If You Use It At All)

1. Cleanse first with a gentle, non-coating shampoo (you want pigment to bind evenly).

2. Use purple shampoo like a treatment, not a cleanser:

   • Once a week max

   • Apply mid-shaft to ends (not scalp)

   • Leave on 1–3 minutes max

3. Follow with a real conditioner (because purple formulas are often drying)

4. Rotate with clarifying shampoo monthly if you notice dullness or over-toning

What To Do Instead (Or Along Side It)

If you’re constantly chasing brassiness, purple shampoo isn’t your problem.

Try this instead:

• Clarify your water: Hard water minerals distort color. A filter helps.

• Use antioxidant-rich products: To prevent oxidation and UV fade

• Choose better shampoo: Many “moisture” shampoos leave coatings that interfere with toners or pigment

• Protect from sun + heat: Use a UV barrier or hat

• Consider re-toning: Toners are designed for this, purple shampoo is not

Final Word: Treat The Cause, Not Just The Color

Purple shampoo is a tool. Not a treatment.

It doesn’t repair hair.
It doesn’t fix bad color.
It doesn’t prevent fade.

It just masks warmth temporarily—and if you’re not careful, it creates new problems in the process.

Real color care means starting with clean hair, supporting it with moisture, and protecting it from what caused the brassiness to begin with.

Otherwise?

You’re just purple-washing the problem.

SOURCES

• Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012.
  (A definitive resource on hair structure, porosity, and cosmetic effects.)

• Waring M, Gummer CL. Contact Dermatitis from Hair-Care Products. Contact Dermatitis. 2006.
  (Discusses irritants, sensitizers, and ingredient reactions, including dyes and preservatives.)

• McMichael AJ, et al. Hair Care Practices in Women of Color. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009.
  (Includes discussion on toning shampoos and chemical treatments affecting porosity and brittleness.)

• Draelos ZD. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. Int J Trichology. 2010.
  (Reviews various hair product types, their mechanisms, and dermatological impact.)

• Nishikawa M, et al. Role of pH in Skin and Scalp Health. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018.
  (Explores how pH affects scalp barrier and product efficacy.)

• Raposo NRB, et al. Effects of Hair Dyes on Hair Properties. J Cosmet Sci. 2015.
  (Details the interaction of oxidative dyeing and porosity with toner effectiveness.)

• Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Purple Shampoo and Optical Brighteners: How They Work (2020).
  (A trade explanation of violet pigments, color theory, and limitations of toning agents.)