Should You Exfoliate? The Real Science Behind Exfoliation, Skin Renewal, and What Works After 50
Let’s talk about exfoliating.
Not just whether you should do it — but how to think about it.
Because depending on who you ask, you’ll get wildly different answers:
“Use it daily.”
“Only at night.”
“Only in winter.”
“Not at all.”
“Twice a week, max.”
And if you’re over 50? The advice gets even blurrier.
So let’s simplify things.
This isn’t a “how-to.”
It’s a “should-you.”
By the end, you’ll have a clearer understanding of what exfoliation actually is…
When it helps.
When it hurts.
And how to tell the difference.
What Even Is Exfoliation?
In simple terms, exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells so newer, fresher ones can take their place.
Your skin already knows how to do this — naturally.
It’s called desquamation:
A continuous, enzyme-mediated cycle where dead skin cells (corneocytes) loosen their connections (corneodesmosomes) and shed from the surface — all without your help .
But aging, stress, dryness, and inflammation can slow that process down.
That’s when the skin may need support.
Unfortunately, the industry doesn’t like to wait.
So it created ways to “speed things up.”
First came scrubs — crushed seeds, shells, beads.
The skincare equivalent of sandpaper.
(Please don’t.)
Then came acids: glycolic, lactic, salicylic, mandelic — more refined, more targeted, more effective.
They work by dissolving the “glue” between cells — loosening the outer layer to help it shed more quickly .
Here’s Where It Gets Tricky...
Acids do work.
But they’re still acids. And acids don’t discriminate.
They function by chemically disrupting your skin’s structure — which is a big ask for fragile, aging skin.
And if you’re over 50?
Your skin is already thinner.
Drier.
Slower to heal.
It produces less oil, holds less water, and takes longer to bounce back from stress .
So every time you exfoliate, you’re asking more from skin that already has less to give.
And the very thing you’re reaching for to “brighten” or “renew”?
Might be the thing making everything worse.
It’s Not Always Buildup
What shows up on the surface — dullness, uneven texture, clogged pores — isn’t always about dead skin.
Often, it’s a reflection of what’s happening beneath the surface:
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Dryness
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Inflammation
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A weakened barrier
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Dehydrated cells unable to function properly
And trying to “strip it away” with more acid?
That’s like pruning a plant that hasn’t rooted.
You don’t help it grow — you just create more stress.
Instead of Forcing Turnover… Support It
Every product in our system is designed to create the conditions your skin needs to exfoliate on its own.
Quietly.
Naturally.
At the pace it can handle.
We focus on hydration, barrier repair, and lipid restoration — because when your skin is healthy, it knows how to do its job. It doesn’t need a harsh reminder.
This approach mirrors what many dermatologists are now calling “supportive skincare” — restoring the function of aging skin by optimizing moisture, pH, and enzyme balance instead of forcing trauma-based turnover .
So… Is There Ever a Time for Acids?
Yes. But with intention — not as a daily ritual.
If your skin feels:
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Rough
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Congested
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Bumpy in texture
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Resistant to normal cleansing...
A well-formulated chemical exfoliant may help.
But use it as a tool, not a habit.
Start once.
Wait a few days.
Look for improvements in clarity or smoothness without tightness, stinging, or flaking.
If your skin looks better — great.
That’s enough.
Job complete.
Back to full support mode.
And a note:
Never exfoliate in the morning.
Acids (especially AHAs like glycolic acid) increase your skin’s sun sensitivity, making UV damage more likely .
What About Gentle Acids?
Not all acids are created equal.
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AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic and lactic acid work on the surface — great for dry or sun-damaged skin, but potentially irritating.
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BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid penetrate deeper into oily pores — often used for acne-prone skin.
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PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) like gluconolactone are gentler still — less likely to irritate, more hydrating, and well-suited to sensitive or mature skin .
These can be useful — but still ask a lot from your barrier.
We prefer to save exfoliation for when it’s needed, not expected.
Why Over-Exfoliation Is So Common — And So Misunderstood
One of the most common complaints we hear is:
“I used acids to make my skin better…
And it looked worse.”
That’s not rare. It’s predictable.
Signs of over-exfoliation include:
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Persistent redness
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Increased dryness
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Stinging on application
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Rough texture that never improves
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A shiny, “too smooth” feel with no bounce
That’s not “renewed” skin.
That’s depleted skin.
You’ve thinned the barrier, dried out the surface, and created a cycle where your skin never catches up.
This is why dermatologists recommend exfoliating no more than 1–2 times a week for most people — and even less if your skin is dry or sensitive .
So… Should You Exfoliate?
That depends.
If your skin is dull, flaky, and sluggish —
You might not need exfoliation.
You might need moisture.
You might need barrier support.
If your skin is congested, bumpy, or unusually textured —
You might benefit from a gentle, infrequent acid exfoliant — used once, and evaluated.
But here’s the real rule:
If your skin isn’t ready for it, don’t force it.
Give it the hydration and lipid support it needs.
Let it find its footing.
Because when you give it that?
Your skin knows what to do.
Sources
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Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(s1), 43–48.
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Draelos, Z. D. (2018). Cosmeceuticals for the treatment of photoaging. Dermatologic Clinics, 36(1), 83–88.
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Hu, S., & Lyu, Y. (2020). Alpha hydroxy acids in skincare: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(8), 1940–1946.
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Gruber, J. V., et al. (2021). Polyhydroxy Acids: The new generation of alpha hydroxy acids. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 72(1), 1–14.
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American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). "Exfoliating your skin."