Vitamin C in Skincare: Miracle Molecule or Overhyped Irritant?

Vitamin C.

Not the orange juice or capsule kind — the skincare kind. Topical, not ingestible.

Depending on who you ask, it’s either:

• A glow-inducing must-have

• Or a recipe for redness, sting, and regret

So, which is it?

The honest answer: it depends. On your skin. On the type of Vitamin C. And on how it’s used.

Let’s unpack what you really need to know.

What Vitamin C Actually Does in Skincare

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is one of the most studied antioxidants in dermatology. Its documented benefits include:

• Neutralizing free radicals from UV exposure, pollution, and oxidative stress [1]

• Brightening uneven tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that triggers melanin production [2]

• Supporting collagen synthesis, which improves firmness and reduces fine lines [3]

• Improving skin texture and radiance through its anti-inflammatory properties [4]

Put simply? Vitamin C protects, repairs, and rejuvenates.

But context matters.

What Are Free Radicals (and Why You Should Care)?

Free radicals are unstable molecules formed when skin is exposed to environmental stressors:

• Sunlight (UV radiation)

• Air pollution

• Smoking

• Chronic stress

These molecules attack healthy skin cells — damaging DNA, degrading collagen, triggering inflammation, and accelerating visible aging [5].

Vitamin C neutralizes these free radicals, acting like a biochemical clean-up crew post-damage.

But here's the twist:

The market is flooded with Vitamin C serums — but they're not all the same.

It comes in various forms, each with different strengths, stabilities, and absorption profiles. Think of it like alcohol:

• Some are smooth and easy-going (like wine)

• Some are volatile and unforgiving (like tequila shots on an empty stomach)

The Most Common (and Potent) Form: L-Ascorbic Acid

L-ascorbic acid is the purest form of Vitamin C. And also the most unpredictable.

At concentrations between 10% and 20%, it delivers results — but with caveats:

• Unstable: It oxidizes quickly in air and light, reducing effectiveness

• Low pH: Typically requires a pH below 3.5 to remain stable and absorb properly [6]

• Irritating: That low pH makes it acidic, triggering sensitivity for many users — especially those with a compromised barrier

That’s why people often experience:

• Stinging or burning upon application

• Redness and flaking

• Unexpected breakouts

Bottom line: L-ascorbic acid is effective, but it’s not for everyone.

Gentler Forms of Vitamin C

Luckily, there are other options.

Buffered and derivative forms offer many of the same benefits — without the volatility:

• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): Stable at a neutral pH, shown to reduce hyperpigmentation and improve hydration [7]

• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): Known for its acne-fighting and antioxidant effects; less irritating than L-AA [8]

• Ascorbyl Glucoside: Water-soluble and highly stable, ideal for long-term brightening [9]

These are gentler, slower-acting — but better tolerated by sensitive or mature skin.

Does That Mean Vitamin C Is Bad?

Not at all.

It means you need to:

• Know the form used in your product

• Understand the concentration

• And assess your skin’s readiness to handle it

Because powerful isn’t always better. Powerful can also mean risky.

Especially for skin that’s already irritated, dry, or inflamed.

The Case Against Over-Exfoliation Disguised as Brightening

Many people chase brightness by layering Vitamin C with:

• Retinoids

• AHAs/BHAs

• Exfoliating scrubs

This creates a perfect storm of:

• Acid overload

• Barrier disruption

• Long-term sensitivity

Over time, this doesn’t just irritate. It ages skin faster through chronic inflammation — a phenomenon known as inflammaging [10].

Our Take: There’s Another Way

We don’t believe glow should come with punishment.

If brightness means stinging, dryness, or flaking — that’s not confidence. That’s compromise.

So we took another route.

Our approach is rooted in strengthening your skin’s natural barrier so it reflects light better, holds hydration longer, and regulates pigment distribution more evenly.

Here’s what we use instead:

🧪 Gamma PGA

Deeply hydrating, clinically shown to be 5x more moisturizing than hyaluronic acid [11]. Improves tone over time.

🧪 Glycerin + Urea

Natural moisture factors (NMFs) that draw water into skin, plumping and smoothing texture.

🧪 Ceramides, Cholesterol, Squalane

Restore lipid balance in the stratum corneum — reinforcing the skin barrier to reduce irritation and discoloration.

🧪 Allantoin

Calms inflammation, soothes redness, and encourages renewal without stress or exfoliation.

🧪 Collagen + Hyaluronic Acid

Support surface plumpness and hydration — so light bounces off skin more evenly, making it appear brighter.

None of these "flash" brightness. They build brightness — from the inside out.

No forcing. No fragility. Just real improvement that actually lasts.

So, Should You Use Vitamin C?

That depends on:

• Your skin type

• Your skin condition

• The form and concentration in your product

• And what else you're using alongside it

If it works for you? Great. If it doesn't? That's okay too.

There are many paths to radiant skin.

The best one is the one your skin can walk without flinching.

SOURCES:

[1] Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MC. "The roles of vitamin C in skin health." Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866.

[2] Telang PS. "Vitamin C in dermatology." Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143–146.

[3] Nusgens BV, et al. "Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagen I and III." Exp Dermatol. 2001;10(5):237-244.

[4] Humbert PG, et al. "Topical ascorbic acid on photodamaged skin." Dermatol Surg. 2003;29(6):575-81.

[5] Wlaschek M, Scharffetter-Kochanek K. "Oxidative stress in chronic venous leg ulcers." Wound Repair Regen. 2005;13(5):452-461.

[6] Pinnell SR, et al. "Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies." Dermatol Surg. 2001;27(2):137-142.

[7] Farris PK. "Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions." Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):814-818.

[8] Kim Y, et al. "Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the treatment of acne vulgaris." J Dermatol. 2008;35(9):537–543.

[9] Tichota DM, et al. "Formulation and clinical evaluation of a cosmetic product containing ascorbyl glucoside." J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(5):940–945.

[10] Pillai S, Oresajo C, Hayward J. "Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation." Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(1):17–34.

[11] Nishimura M, et al. "Moisturizing effects of polyglutamic acid in humans." J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58(5):527-537.